Zeus Tower Canyonlands Climbing Guide
Zeus Tower and the surrounding Taylor Canyon area offer some of Utah's most striking desert tower climbing, with everything from accessible multi-pitch trad routes to burly single-pitch challenges. The area is known for quality Wingate and Navajo sandstone formations that provide excellent friction and varied crack systems. Access is straightforward via Taylor Canyon Road, making it a solid choice for both day trips and longer desert climbing objectives.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Zeus Tower and Taylor Canyon climbing. These are the lines everyone talks about and the ones you'll want to tick.
Routes
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Northeast Ridge (5.7, Trad, Zeus)
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Sisyphus (5.11c+, Trad, Zeus)
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Dunn Route (5.11c+, Trad, Moses (Taylor Canyon area))
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Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+, Trad, Moses (Taylor Canyon area))
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Pale Fire (5.12b+, Trad, Moses (Taylor Canyon area))
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Ancient Art (5.10 C1, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Stolen Chimney (5.10, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Cottontail Tower (5.10, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Echo Tower (5.9, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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King Fisher (5.10, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on desert sandstone or stepping up your trad game. These routes offer manageable grades with the classic Canyonlands experience.
Routes
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Solstice of Change (5.10-ish, Sport, Taylor Canyon)
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Fine Jade (5.7, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Phantom Spirit (5.8, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Sundevil Chimney (5.8, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Finger of Fate (5.7, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Desert Solitaire (5.8, Trad, Taylor Canyon)
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Sandstone Samurai (5.9, Trad, Taylor Canyon)
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Tower of Power (5.8, Trad, Taylor Canyon)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step it up with these technical challenges that'll test your crack skills and endurance. Solid preparation for the area's harder offerings.
Routes
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Lightwave (5.11a, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Psycho Killer (5.11b, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Time Wave Zero (5.11c, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Cosmic Debris (5.10d, Trad, Taylor Canyon)
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Fire on the Mountain (5.11a, Trad, Taylor Canyon)
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Desert Shield (5.10c, Trad, Taylor Canyon)
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Sandstone Cowboy (5.11b, Trad, Taylor Canyon)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
For when you're ready to get properly worked. These routes demand solid technique and mental game.
Routes
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Cutting Edge (5.12a, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Armageddon (5.12c, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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Desert Storm (5.12b, Trad, Taylor Canyon)
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Apocalypse Now (5.12d, Trad, Taylor Canyon)
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Terminal Velocity (5.13a, Trad, Fisher Towers)
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