Woodbury Desert Climbing Guide
Woodbury Desert serves up quality sport climbing on solid sandstone with routes spanning from mellow 5.6s to world-class 5.14s. The area's main draws are Black and Tan Crag and Kelly's Rock Crag, both offering excellent stone and well-bolted lines that make for productive sessions year-round. Access is straightforward, but respect private property boundaries and pack out your trash.
Classic Routes (5.10d–5.12d)
The must-do lines that define Woodbury Desert. These routes have earned their reputation through exceptional movement, position, or rock quality. If you're only going to climb a few routes here, make them these.
Routes
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Reward Schedule (5.10d, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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No Random Guy Penis (5.11b/c, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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K-8 (5.11b, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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K-6 (5.11b, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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Czech Frogs Say Qua (5.11c, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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K-4 (5.11b, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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The Hookup (5.11a, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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Hubris (5.11a, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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Another Day at the Office (5.12c, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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The Heeler (5.12b/c, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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K-7 (5.12d, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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K-9 (5.12b, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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Mayhem (5.12b, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.10d)
The sweet spot for most climbers looking to push their limits without getting completely shut down. These routes demand better technique and endurance while still being achievable goals for the average weekend warrior.
Routes
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Resolve (5.10a, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Crime and Punishment (5.10a, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Criminal Mischief (5.10a/b, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Drunken Speed Fisherman (5.10b/c, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Blockheads (5.10c, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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K-1 (5.10a, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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Plumbers Arete (5.10c, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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A Fall From Grace (5.10a, Sport, The Solstice Crag)
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K-5 (5.10b, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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Gnashing of Teeth (5.10b, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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Rending of Garments (5.10a/b, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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Hard Routes (5.12a–5.14b)
Serious business for strong climbers. These routes separate the weekend warriors from the dedicated crushers, demanding everything you've got and then some. Come prepared to work.
Routes
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Dull Boy (5.12a, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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House of Cards (5.12a, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Jumanji (5.12a, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Poke in the Eye (5.12b, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Da Riddler (5.12b/c, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Dickheads (5.13a, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Minus Five (5.13a, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Breakin' the Law (5.14b, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Old World Lullaby (5.14b, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on real rock or warming up before harder sends. These routes offer solid movement on good holds with forgiving grades that won't punish you for still figuring things out.
Routes
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Learning Curve (5.6, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Glutton for Punishment (5.7, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Dissonance (5.7, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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Redolence (5.7, Sport, Black and Tan Crag)
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A Force To Be Reckoned With (5.7, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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Demagogue (5.7, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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Harsh Rhetoric (5.7, Sport, Kelly's Rock Crag)
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The Awakening (5.9c, Sport, Kelly's Rock)
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