Washer Woman Tower Climbing Guide
Washer Woman Tower offers classic desert tower climbing in the heart of Utah's red rock country. The routes here are predominantly traditional climbs that demand solid crack technique and gear placement skills. Access is straightforward, but bring plenty of water and plan for the desert environment.
Classic Routes (5.5–5.11)
The must-do lines that define desert tower climbing. These routes have earned their reputation through decades of ascents and represent the best of what the area offers across all grades.
Routes
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Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9+, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Black Sun (5.10b, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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North Face (5.11-, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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West Face (5.11-, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) (5.10b, Trad, Eagle Plume Tower)
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Death Of American Democracy (5.10, Trad, Kingfisher)
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Stolen Chimney (5.10, Trad, Ancient Art)
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Charlie's Sorry (5.10, Trad, Camalot Wall)
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Eleven (5.10, Sport, Camalot Wall)
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Sorry Charlie (5.10, Trad, Camalot Wall)
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Angel Arch (5.10+, Trad, The Needles District)
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Castle Arch (5.5, Trad, The Needles District)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.8)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on desert towers or building confidence on multi-pitch trad routes. These climbs offer solid introduction to the unique rock quality and exposure that make Utah towers legendary.
Routes
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Bandito Route (5.6, Trad, Mexican Hat)
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The Iron Chef (5.7, Trad, Echo Tower)
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Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8, Trad, Kingfisher)
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Finger of Fate (5.8, Trad, The Titan)
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All Apologies Pillar (5.8, Trad, Camalot Wall)
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Swiss Gentleman (5.8, Trad, Turkey Tower)
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Intermediate Routes (5.9–5.9+)
Step up your game with these moderate classics. Expect sustained climbing, committing moves, and the kind of exposure that makes desert towers addictive. Solid 5.8 trad leaders will find good challenges here.
Routes
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North Chimney (5.9, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Robbins Route (5.9, Trad, Mexican Hat)
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The Original Route (5.9, Trad, Juniper Butte)
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Mr. Stubbs (5.9, Trad, Sitting Hen)
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East Face (5.9, Trad, Petard Tower)
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Southwest Face (5.9, Trad, Arrowhead Spire)
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Angel's Fear (5.9, Trad, Lady in the Bathtub)
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Jagged Edge (5.9, Trad, Kingfisher)
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The Hippie Route (North Summit) (5.9, Trad, Ancient Art)
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Phantom Sprint (5.9, Trad, Echo Tower)
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The Turkey's Crevasse (5.9+, Trad, Turkey Tower)
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Hard Routes (5.11–5.13)
Serious business for strong climbers looking to push limits on desert stone. These routes demand technical precision, mental fortitude, and the fitness to sustain hard moves in exposed positions.
Routes
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Burning Inside (5.11c+, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Hollowpoint (5.11d, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Ivory Tower, The (5.13b, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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Sacred Ground (5.12, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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SunDevil Chimney Free (5.13, Trad, The Titan)
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The National Hot Rod Association (5.12a/b, Trad, The Needles District)
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Mr. Tambourine Man (5.11c+, Trad, Turkey Tower)
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South Face (5.11a/b, Trad, Turkey Tower)
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Epic Routes (A3–A4)
Big wall adventures and marathon sessions for climbers seeking the full desert tower experience. These routes require advanced aid skills, extensive rack, and serious commitment.
Routes
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Bjornstad Traverse (The Girdle of Castleton Tower) (5.10, Trad, Castleton Tower)
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The Return of Mudzilla (A3, Trad, Kingfisher)
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Weird Science (A4, Trad, Kingfisher)
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Jade Gate (A4, Trad, The Titan)
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