Virgin River Gorge Climbing Guide
Virgin River Gorge delivers some of Utah's most technical limestone sport climbing, with steep walls and caves that'll test your endurance and power. The area is known for its quality stone and challenging grades, making it a destination for climbers looking to push their limits. Access is straightforward from I-15, but be prepared for desert conditions and bring plenty of water.
Beginner Routes (5.7–5.11d)
Perfect for warming up or working on technique before tackling the gorge's harder offerings. These routes give you a taste of the area's limestone without the full commitment of the harder grades.
Routes
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Does Choss Have Buddha Nature? (5.7, Sport, Sun Wall)
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Drop Chop (5.10d, Sport, Mentor Cave)
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Sun Dog (5.11b, Sport, Sun Wall)
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Brutus (5.11b/c, Sport, Mentor Cave)
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Bloody Mary (5.11c, Sport, Blasphemy Wall)
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Sun Cave Direct (5.11d, Sport, Sun Cave)
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Quick Fixe (5.11d, Sport, Mentor Cave)
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Intermediate Routes (5.12a–5.12c)
This is where Virgin River Gorge starts to show its teeth. Expect sustained climbing, technical sequences, and the kind of pump that'll have you questioning your training routine.
Routes
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Don't Believe the Hype (5.12a, Sport, Planet Earth Wall)
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Small Dose (5.12a, Sport, Sun Cave)
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Sun Cave Right (5.12a, Sport, Sun Cave)
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Chronic (5.12a, Sport, Sun Wall)
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Late Sun (5.12a/b, Sport, Sun Wall)
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Mentor (5.12b, Sport, Mentor Cave)
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Bloody Mary Extension (5.12b, Sport, Blasphemy Wall)
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Redneck (5.12b, Sport, Planet Earth Wall)
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Erotic Mary (5.12b, Sport, Blasphemy Wall)
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Sunburst (5.12b/c, Sport, Sun Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.12c–5.12+)
Serious business territory. These routes demand solid 5.12 fitness and the mental game to match. Come prepared to work for your sends.
Routes
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Forever Man (5.12c, Sport, Sun Cave)
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Bowser (5.12c, Sport, Mentor Cave)
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High Flames Drifter (5.12c, Sport, Blasphemy Wall)
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Corrosion (5.12c, Sport, Mentor Cave)
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Fillmore Virgin Beaver (5.12c, Sport, Planet Earth Wall)
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Dirt Cowboy (5.12c, Sport, Planet Earth Wall)
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Sunchipped (5.12c, Sport, Sun Wall)
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Heroin (5.12d, Sport, Sun Cave)
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Classic Routes (5.13a–5.14c)
The crown jewels of Virgin River Gorge. These are the routes that put the area on the map and keep the hardest senders coming back. Elite-level climbing that represents some of the best limestone sport routes in the country.
Routes
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I Saw Jesus at the Chains (5.13a, Sport, Blasphemy Wall)
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Joe Six Pack (5.13a, Sport, Planet Earth Wall)
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Boyle's Route (5.13a, Sport, Sun Wall)
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False Witness (5.13a, Sport, Planet Earth Wall)
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Bowser Wowser (5.13a/b, Sport, Mentor Cave)
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Fall of Man (5.13b, Sport, Blasphemy Wall)
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Mars (5.13b, Sport, Mentor Cave)
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Sensory Overload (5.13b, Sport, Mentor Cave)
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King of Beers (5.13b, Sport, Planet Earth Wall)
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Scared Straight (5.13b, Sport, Sun Cave)
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Needle Me (5.13b/c, Sport, Sun Cave)
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Captain Fantastic (5.13c, Sport, Planet Earth Wall)
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Relapse (5.13c, Sport, Sun Cave)
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Dude (5.13c/d, Sport, Blasphemy Wall)
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Hell Comes To Frogtown (5.13d, Sport, Mentor Cave)
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Helios (5.13d, Sport, Sun Wall)
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Sundiver (5.13d, Sport, Sun Wall)
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Route of All Evil (5.14a, Sport, Blasphemy Wall)
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Horse Latitudes (5.14a, Sport, Planet Earth Wall)
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Planet Earth (5.14a, Sport, Planet Earth Wall)
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Kronos (5.14b, Sport, Sun Cave)
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Necessary Evil (5.14c, Sport, Blasphemy Wall)
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Blasphemy Wall 2187 (5.12+, Sport, Blasphemy Wall)
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