Valley of the Gods Climbing Guide
Valley of the Gods serves up classic desert tower climbing on bomber Wingate sandstone, with everything from mellow multi-pitch adventures to burly crack testpieces. The area's scattered towers and spires make for excellent objective-style climbing, though most folks come for the moderate trad routes and stunning red rock scenery. Access is straightforward via the Valley of the Gods scenic drive, but bring everything you need since services are sparse.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Valley of the Gods climbing. These routes have earned their reputation through quality movement, position, and overall experience.
Routes
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Boracho Grande (5.9-, Trad, Seven Drunken Sailors)
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Rednecks, Pistols, and Whiskey (5.9+, Trad, Mount Chomama)
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Robbins Route (5.9, Trad, Mexican Hat)
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Milk Crates From Hell (5.4, Trad, Eagle Plume Tower)
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Fuzzy Crockpot (5.8, Trad, Eagle Plume Tower)
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Little Drunk Jimmy (5.8+, Trad, Seven Drunken Sailors)
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Southwest Face (5.9, Trad, Arrowhead Spire)
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East Face (5.9, Trad, Petard Tower)
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The Original Route (5.9, Trad, Juniper Butte)
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Mr. Stubbs (5.9, Trad, Sitting Hen)
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Angel's Fear (5.9, Trad, Lady in the Bathtub)
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Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) (5.10, Trad, Eagle Plume Tower)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step it up with these moderate challenges that'll test your desert crack skills and route-finding abilities. Good mix of sustained climbing and technical sections.
Routes
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(a place in france where the) Naked Ladies Dance (5.10+, Trad, Barricade Wall)
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(but they all don't care cause they have) No Underwear (5.10c, Sport, Barricade Wall)
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Pounding Herradura (5.10a, Trad, The Anvil)
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Northeast Route (5.10+, Trad, North Tower)
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Tommy Knocker--Tomfoolery (5.10+, Trad, Tom-Tom Tower Area)
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It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad Putterman (5.10+, Trad, Putterman in a Bathtub)
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A Hole In The Wall (where the men can see it all) (5.10, Trad, Barricade Wall)
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Supercalifragilisticexpialiputterman (5.11c+, Trad, Putterman on the Throne)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
For when you're ready to get properly worked. These routes demand solid technique and mental game.
Routes
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Bandito Route (5.14c, Trad, Mexican Hat)
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Third Sailor (5.12, Sport, Seven Drunken Sailors)
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