The Lighthouse Tower Climbing Guide

A curated route guide to The Lighthouse Tower.

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The Lighthouse Tower Climbing Guide

The Lighthouse Tower area offers some of the most striking desert tower climbing in Utah, with solid Wingate sandstone and classic crack systems. This zone attracts climbers looking for everything from mellow trad routes to serious desert sends, with the iconic Lighthouse Tower itself serving as the centerpiece formation. Access is straightforward via the River Road, making it a popular destination for both day trips and multi-day desert adventures.

Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)

Perfect for getting your desert legs under you or introducing someone to Utah sandstone. These routes offer solid rock and manageable grades, though you'll still want your trad rack dialed since most of these are gear routes.

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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)

Step it up with these moderate desert classics. You'll find quality movement and varied terrain across multiple formations, from the main tower to the surrounding buttresses and walls.

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Hard Routes (5.11+–5.12+)

Bring your A-game for these demanding lines. The hard routes here will test your desert crack skills and mental game, with some truly world-class climbing on bomber rock.

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Classic Routes

The must-do lines that define this area. These routes span all grades but share that special something that keeps climbers coming back year after year.

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