Temple Mountain Climbing Guide
Temple Mountain offers a solid mix of sport and trad climbing on quality Navajo sandstone, with everything from mellow multi-pitch adventures to steep single-pitch sends. The area sees fewer crowds than nearby Zion, making it a great spot when you want good climbing without the circus. Access is straightforward, but check current conditions as some approach roads can be rough after weather.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Temple Mountain climbing. These lines showcase the best movement, rock quality, and positions the area has to offer across all grades and styles.
Routes
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South-Southeast Face (5.4, Trad, Temple Mountain)
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Casual Route (5.7, Trad, East Temple)
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Southwest Ridge (5.7, Trad, West Temple)
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Unknown Trough (5.8, Sport, Main Wall)
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Rexburg Rock Climbers Memorial Crack (5.9, Trad, East Temple)
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The 10th Division (5.10b, Trad, East Temple)
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Sampler Platter (5.10b, Sport, Main Wall)
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Lovelace (5.10c/d, Trad, East Temple)
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Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion (5.10+, Trad, East Temple)
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Big Lebowski (5.11a/b, Trad, West Temple)
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The Flakes of Wrath (5.11d, Sport, Main Wall)
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Freezer Burn IV (aka Free or Burn) (5.11+, Trad, East Temple)
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Beginner Routes (5.4–5.9+)
Perfect for building confidence on desert sandstone or getting your multi-pitch legs under you. These routes offer good movement and manageable exposure while you dial in your desert climbing skills.
Routes
- Fang Spire (5.9+, Trad, East Temple)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11d)
This is where Temple Mountain really shines. Whether you're working sport projects on the Main Wall or linking trad pitches on the temples, there's plenty here to keep you busy and progressing.
Routes
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Indoctrination (5.10d, Sport, Main Wall)
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Weed Whacker (5.10d, Sport, Main Wall)
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Big Lie (5.10+, Trad, West Temple)
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Back Where It All Begins (5.11a, Trad, West Temple)
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Sins of the Body (5.11d, Sport, Main Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.11+–5.12c)
The business end of Temple Mountain climbing. These routes demand solid technique and fitness, with the sport lines offering sustained difficulty and the trad routes requiring serious head game.
Routes
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Humdinger (5.11+, Trad, West Temple)
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Mobius (5.11c+, Trad, East Temple)
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The Hanging Garden (5.12b, Sport, Main Wall)
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Zealot (5.12b, Sport, Main Wall)
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Back Breaker (5.12c, Sport, Main Wall)
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Prophesy (5.12c, Sport, Main Wall)
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The Wave (5.12c, Sport, Wave Wall)
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