Sunshine Wall Moab Climbing Guide
Sunshine Wall offers some of the most accessible sport and trad climbing in Moab, with quality routes across multiple difficulty ranges and several distinct sub-areas. The wall gets morning sun and afternoon shade, making it a solid choice for moderate temps, and the approach is relatively mellow compared to some of Moab's more adventurous crags. Access is straightforward, but respect private property boundaries and pack out your trash.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define the character of Sunshine Wall. These span multiple grades but all offer quality movement, good rock, and the kind of climbing that keeps people coming back to Moab.
Routes
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Dislaberal (5.6, Trad, Family Friendly)
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Moab? Moab! (5.7, Sport, Family Friendly)
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Reach Around (5.7, Sport, Family Friendly)
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Second Route (5.8+, Trad, Family Friendly)
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Zig (5.8+, Sport, Family Friendly)
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Love Hurts (5.9, Sport, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Science Friction (5.9, Sport, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Neopolitan Corner (5.9, Trad, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Unknown (5.9, Trad, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Burning Shoes (a.k.a. Shattered Illusions of Love) (5.9, Trad, Tower 143)
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DontChaKnow (5.9, Sport, Family Friendly)
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Tumbleweed Inferno (5.9+, Sport, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.8)
Perfect for building confidence on Moab sandstone or getting your legs under you after the drive down. These routes offer good movement without being overly pumpy, and there's a nice mix of sport and trad options if you want to practice gear placements.
Routes
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CaronaCation (5.6, Sport, Sunbeam Wall)
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Social Distancing (5.6c, Sport, Sunbeam Wall)
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Learning Curve (5.7a, Sport, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Tezcatlipoca (5.7a, Trad, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Vaccination Vacation (5.7a, Sport, Sunbeam Wall)
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Melanoma Shuffle (5.8b, Sport, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Mosquito Coast (5.8b, Sport, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Sprang Brake (5.8b, Sport, Sunbeam Wall)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step it up with some technical movement and sustained sections. These routes will test your footwork and endurance while still being reasonable objectives for solid 5.9 climbers looking to push their grade.
Routes
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Stimulus Check (5.10a, Sport, Sunbeam Wall)
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Lesson in Braille (5.10c, Sport, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Walking on Sunshine (5.10d, Sport, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Sunset Skydive (5.11, Sport, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
For when you're feeling strong and want to test yourself on some of the area's more demanding lines.
Routes
- Brainiac (5.12a, Sport, Sunshine Wall Routes)
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Boulders
Good options for warming up, cooling down, or when you want a break from the rope. The boulder problems here range from casual to challenging and offer a different perspective on the area's rock quality.
Routes
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Thorn Up (V0+, Boulder, Sunshine Wall Boulders)
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Chill Out, Jacob (V1, Boulder, Sunshine Wall Boulders)
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A Bowl A Day Keeps The Doctor Away (V2, Boulder, Sunshine Wall Boulders)
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Naked Women Pointing At Naked Women (NWPANW) (V3+, Boulder, Sunshine Wall Boulders)
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Hopi/Hisatsinom (5.3+, Trad, Indigenous Wall)
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Navajo/Dineh (5.3+, Trad, Indigenous Wall)
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Paiute/Nuwuvi (5.4a, Trad, Indigenous Wall)
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Ute/Noochew (5.4a, Trad, Indigenous Wall)
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Hawaii Superferry (5.7, Trad, Little Miss Sunshine)
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