Stansbury Mountains Climbing Guide
The Stansbury Mountains offer a solid mix of sport and trad climbing across several distinct areas, from the popular South Willow Canyon to the remote Three Coffins formation in the West Desert. You'll find everything from mellow trad lines to steep sport routes, with most areas requiring a bit of hiking to reach the goods. Access is generally straightforward, but check current conditions for the more remote desert areas.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define the Stansbury experience. These represent the best climbing the area has to offer across all grades and styles.
Routes
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Children of the Grave (5.4, Trad, Three Coffins (The Island, West Desert))
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Another Cog (5.6, Trad, Three Coffins (The Island, West Desert))
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The Murder Machine (5.6, Trad, Three Coffins (The Island, West Desert))
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A Shallow Grave (5.8, Trad, Three Coffins (The Island, West Desert))
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Elysian Fields (5.9, Sport, Blob's Your Uncle, The Valley of Zion)
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Reapers Delight (5.9, Trad, Three Coffins (The Island, West Desert))
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Rivers Edge (5.10b, Sport, South Willow Canyon)
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Walk the Plank (5.11a, Sport, South Willow Canyon)
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Teflon Guerrilla (5.11a, Sport, South Willow Canyon)
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TKO (5.13a, Sport, South Willow Canyon)
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Beginner Routes (5.4–5.9)
Perfect for building your rack skills or getting comfortable on longer routes. The Three Coffins area provides classic desert trad climbing with solid rock and straightforward protection.
Routes
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You Die, She Dies, Everybody Dies (5.8, Trad, Three Coffins (The Island, West Desert))
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Creeping Death (5.9, Trad, Three Coffins (The Island, West Desert))
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Clubs Full Of Jacks (5.9, Sport, Blob's Your Uncle, The Valley of Zion)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
This is where the Stansbury Mountains really shine, especially in South Willow Canyon. Expect technical movement on solid rock with good bolt spacing.
Routes
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Safe Sport (link-up) (5.10d, Sport, West Desert)
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Refiner (5.11a, Sport, Narrows)
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Black Sails (5.11a/b, Sport, Narrows)
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Narrowpathic (5.11a, Sport, South Willow Canyon)
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Labor Fruits (5.11a, Sport, Fern's Ledge)
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Dirt (5.11d, Sport, West Desert)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
The business end of Stansbury climbing, concentrated mainly in South Willow Canyon. These routes demand everything you've got and then some.
Routes
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Texture (5.12c, Sport, South Willow Canyon)
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Nerve Agent (5.13a, Sport, South Willow Canyon)
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Slim Shady (5.13a, Sport, South Willow Canyon)
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Tufa Petita (5.13a, Sport, Fern's Ledge)
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Narrow Minded (5.13-, Sport, South Willow Canyon)
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Dust-pathic (link-up) (5.13b, Sport, South Willow Canyon)
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Black Sails (In the Sunset) (5.13b, Sport, South Willow Canyon)
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Bouldering
Limited but quality bouldering options for when you want to work power without the commitment of longer routes.
Routes
- El Búho (V7, Boulder, Fern's Ledge)
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