Springdale Sandstone Climbing Guide
Springdale Sandstone offers some of Utah's most iconic desert tower climbing, with classic trad routes on towering formations like West Temple and Mt. Kinesava. The area is known for its adventurous multi-pitch climbs on solid Navajo sandstone, plus scattered bouldering opportunities. Access is generally straightforward, though some approaches require hiking through Zion National Park.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Springdale Sandstone climbing. These are the lines everyone talks about - from mellow desert towers to burly boulder problems that'll test your limits.
Routes
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Cowboy Ridge (5.7, Trad, Mt. Kinesava)
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Southwest Ridge (5.7, Trad, West Temple)
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Cave Route (5.8+, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Big Lie (5.10+, Trad, West Temple)
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Back Where It All Begins (5.11a, Trad, West Temple)
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Big Lebowski (5.11a/b, Trad, West Temple)
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Immaculate Conception (5.10b, Trad, Right Mary)
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Theatre Goddess (5.10b, Trad, Right Mary)
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The Force Boyle (5.11c+, Trad, Johnson Mountain)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on desert sandstone. These routes offer manageable grades while still delivering that classic Utah tower experience, plus some mellow bouldering to round out your sessions.
Routes
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No Holds Barred (5.8+, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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West Face Left (V0-V2, Boulder, Zion Bouldering)
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East Face Right (V0-1, Boulder, Drilled Pocket Boulder)
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Angled Crack (aka unknown) (V0-1, Boulder, Angled Crack Boulder)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step up your desert game with these solid 5.10 offerings. Expect sustained climbing on quality rock with the occasional technical crux to keep things interesting.
Routes
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Knock yourself up! (5.10b, Trad, The Right Mary)
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Blockhead (5.10+, Trad, Johnson Mountain)
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Settlers Line (5.10+, Trad, Johnson Mountain)
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New Ewe (5.10c, Trad, Zion National Park)
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Operation Condor (5.10d, Trad, Zion National Park)
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Kora (5.10b, Trad, Zion National Park)
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Gina Town (V4, Boulder, Dragon Rock)
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Hard Routes (5.11+)
When you're ready to push your limits on desert stone. These routes demand solid technique and commitment, with a couple of absolutely wild boulder problems thrown in for the crushers.
Routes
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West Face Center (V15, Boulder, Drilled Pocket Boulder)
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West Face Right (V15, Boulder, The Globe)
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