Snow Canyon State Park Climbing Guide
Snow Canyon delivers classic Navajo sandstone climbing just outside St. George, with everything from mellow trad lines to steep sport routes. The red rock here is generally solid, and the winter climbing season makes it a perfect escape when other areas are snowed in. Most areas require a short approach through the state park, so grab a day pass at the entrance.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Snow Canyon climbing. These routes offer exceptional quality and character that make them worth seeking out regardless of grade.
Routes
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Island in the Sky Traverse (5.3, Trad, Moss Canyon (Island In The Sky))
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Deviant Chimney (5.4, Sport, Hackberry Wash Wall)
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Bat's Meow (5.7, Trad, The Breakfast Nook)
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Just Desserts (5.7, Trad, Circus Wall (Island In The Sky))
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Uncle Reamus (5.8, Trad, The Enclosure)
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Pygmy Alien (5.8, Trad, Circus Wall (Island In The Sky))
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Colliewobbles (5.10a, Sport, The Breakfast Nook)
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Listen to the Echo (5.10a, Sport, The Enclosure)
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The Falcon (5.10+, Trad, West Canyon)
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Atomic Indian (5.11a, Trad, The Enclosure)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on Navajo sandstone or warming up before harder sends. These routes offer good movement and manageable grades while you dial in your desert rock technique.
Routes
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Twist and Shout (5.8-, Sport, Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes)
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W'gasa (5.8+, Trad, West Canyon)
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Ebony Eggshells (5.9+, Trad, West Canyon)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
The meat and potatoes of Snow Canyon climbing. These routes will test your technique on varied terrain and give you a solid workout without being completely desperate.
Routes
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Grey Nomads (5.10, Sport, Circus Wall)
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Prudence (5.10a, Trad, West Canyon)
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Under The Sleeping Giant (5.10a, Trad, Island In The Sky > Dip Area)
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Thousand Pints of Lite (5.10a, Sport, Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes)
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Deviated Septum (5.10b/c, Trad, Hackberry Wash Wall)
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Illegal Alien (5.10b+, Sport, Circus Wall)
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Mistaken Identity (5.10+, Sport, West Canyon)
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Who Knows What It's Called (5.11b, Sport, Hackberry Wash Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
When you're ready to get worked. These routes demand solid technique, power, and commitment on some of Snow Canyon's steepest and most technical terrain.
Routes
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Fool's Paradise (5.11c, Sport, West Canyon)
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Barbarian (5.11c, Trad, Island In The Sky > Circus Wall)
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Swan Song (5.11d, Sport, West Canyon)
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Super Punk Enough (5.11d, Trad, Hackberry Wash Wall)
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A Little Nightmare Music (5.11b, Trad, Island In The Sky)
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Leopard Skin (5.12a, Trad, Sand Dunes (Island In The Sky))
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The Journey From the Future (5.12b+, Trad, Hackberry Wash Wall)
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Freak Show (5.12c, Sport, Circus Wall)
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Jimmy the Geek (5.12c, Sport, Circus Wall)
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Bouldering
For when you want to work specific moves or don't feel like racking up. Snow Canyon's bouldering scene is smaller but offers quality problems on the same great sandstone.
Routes
- Arch Nemesis (V0+, Boulder, Island In The Sky > War Zone)
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