Santaquin Canyon Climbing Guide
Santaquin Canyon is Utah's premier ice and mixed climbing destination, with some solid sport routes thrown in for good measure. Most climbers come here in winter for the world-class ice flows and challenging mixed lines, though the sport climbing on quality limestone keeps things interesting year-round. Access is straightforward via the main canyon road, but always check conditions in winter.
Classic Routes (WI4–WI6, M6–M7+)
The must-do lines that put Santaquin on the map. These routes offer the full Santaquin experience and are considered benchmarks for ice and mixed climbing in Utah.
Routes
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Get Back on It (WI4, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Mr. Freeze (WI4, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Mighty Quinn (WI4 M6, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Cutthroat (WI5, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Automatic Control Theory (WI5-6, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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The Candlestick (WI5-6, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Angel of Fear (WI5-6, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Frozen Water Burial (M7, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Gimlet (M7+, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9, WI3–WI4)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on both rock and ice. The sport routes here are confidence-builders on good stone, while the ice routes offer a solid introduction to waterfall climbing without being too committing.
Routes
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A Wrinkle in Time (5.6, Sport, Red Wonder Wall)
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Enders Game (5.6, Sport, Red Wonder Wall)
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Strawberry Fields (5.7, Sport, Strawberry Fields Wall)
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No Name (5.8+, Sport, Strawberry Fields Wall)
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Strawberry Blonde (5.9, Sport, Strawberry Fields Wall)
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Bozo Gully (WI3, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Squash Head (WI4-, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Backoff (WI4, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.11d)
This is where Santaquin's sport climbing really shines. Expect sustained movement on featured limestone with good protection. The Santaqueen Wall and Avalanche Wall offer some of the canyon's best moderate sport routes.
Routes
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Coming Full Circle (5.10a, Sport, Santaqueen Wall)
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Santaqueen Prom Queen (5.10a, Sport, Santaqueen Wall)
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Bring a Friend (5.10b, Sport, Santaqueen Wall)
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Resuscitation (5.10b, Sport, Main Wall)
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Unnamed Riches (5.10b/c, Sport, Strawberry Fields Wall)
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Good Unknown (5.11a, Sport, Avalanche Wall)
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Newer Unknown (5.11b, Sport, Avalanche Wall)
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Middle Unknown (5.11b/c, Sport, Avalanche Wall)
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Power Unknown (5.11d, Sport, Avalanche Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.12a, M8+–M12, WI5+)
The serious business. These routes represent some of Utah's most challenging ice and mixed climbing, plus a taste of hard sport. Come prepared with solid technique and the right gear.
Routes
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Strawberries Can't Jump (5.12a, Sport, Strawberry Fields Wall)
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Baghdad (Better than Baghdad) (M8+, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Holy Ghost (M8+, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Martini (M9, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Tropical Hooker (M10, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Fairies Wear Boots (M12, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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Ricochet (WI5+ M8, Trad, Santaquin Canyon Ice)
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