San Rafael Swell Climbing Guide
The San Rafael Swell offers some of Utah's most adventurous desert tower climbing, with endless Wingate and Navajo sandstone formations scattered across a massive geological uplift. This is primarily trad climbing country, where you'll find everything from mellow multi-pitch adventures to serious desert objectives. Access can be complex with some areas requiring permits or having seasonal restrictions, so do your homework before heading out.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define climbing in the Swell. These routes showcase what makes this area special, from perfect desert towers to quality bouldering on unique sandstone formations.
Routes
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Chopped Sand (5.9, Trad, Outhouse Tower)
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Comedy of Errors (5.10+, Trad, San Rafael Swell)
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Knights-Errant (5.9, Trad, O Crags (Three Finger Canyon))
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Flo and Al's/School For Advanced Suffering (V3, Boulder, Factory Butte)
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My Girl (V3, Boulder, B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyon))
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The Great North Ridge (5.7, Trad, Little Spotted Wolf Canyon)
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West Face of Tiki Tower (5.8, Trad, Tiki Tower)
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Private Pizza (5.9, Trad, Private Pizza Wall, Lower Buckhorn)
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Scenic Byway (5.10a, Trad, Scenic Byway Wall)
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James Tower AKA The Lightblub (5.10a/b, Trad, Red Corner, Lower Buckhorn)
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Tippin The Bottle (5.10a, Trad, Bottleneck Peak)
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Blood on the Tracks (5.12b, Trad, Dylan Wall)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting comfortable with desert sandstone and building your trad leading skills. These routes offer solid introductions to the Swell's unique rock quality and exposure without getting too spicy.
Routes
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Bloody Slab (5.7+, Trad, E Crags (DBC Canyon))
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Scenic Highway (5.8, Trad, Scenic Byway Wall)
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Day of Atonement (5.8, Trad, E Crags (DBC Canyon))
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Day of Endless Chocolate (5.8+, Trad, E Crags (DBC Canyon))
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5 o'clock shadow (5.8+, Sport, Winter Wall)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step up your desert game with these solid 5.10 objectives. Expect more sustained climbing, trickier gear placements, and the kind of exposure that makes the Swell famous.
Routes
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99 Problems (5.10, Trad, San Rafael Swell)
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Old Bushmills (5.10, Trad, San Rafael Swell)
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Cat Walk (5.10, Trad, O Crags (Three Finger Canyon))
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The Crack (5.10, Trad, O Crags (Three Finger Canyon))
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Fools Paradise (5.10, Trad, San Rafael Swell)
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Eagle Rock (5.10, Trad, Swaseyland)
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Bob Can't Climb (5.10, Trad, Dylan Wall)
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Akhenaten (5.10+, Trad, The Pharaoh)
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Go-Go Godzilla (5.10, Trad, San Rafael Swell)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
The Swell's hardest offerings, mostly concentrated on Dylan Wall. These are serious desert objectives that demand solid 5.12 skills and the mental game to handle sustained difficulty on remote desert towers.
Routes
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Dinkytown (5.12b+, Trad, Dylan Wall)
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Isis (5.12c/d, Trad, Dylan Wall)
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The Mighty Quinn (5.12-, Trad, Dylan Wall)
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Angel of Death (A3, Trad, Long Dong Silver Area)
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Long Dong Silver (5.9+, Trad, Long Dong Silver Area)
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