Ruth Lake Uintas Climbing Guide
Ruth Lake offers solid sport and trad climbing on quality quartzite in a beautiful alpine setting. The area features three main walls with routes spanning from beginner-friendly 5.6s to challenging 5.12s, making it a great destination for mixed-ability groups. Access requires a moderate hike, so plan accordingly and check seasonal conditions.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Ruth Lake's character. These routes consistently deliver quality movement and memorable experiences across all three main areas, representing the best of what this crag has to offer.
Routes
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Power Boy (5.8+, Sport, Assassin Wall)
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Uinta Hit Squad (5.9, Sport, Assassin Wall)
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Uncle Charlie's Crack (5.8+, Trad, Assassin Wall)
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General George Custer (5.9, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Little Big Horn (5.8, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Scout (5.9, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Peace Treaty (5.9, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Sacred Hoop (5.10a, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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The Legend (5.10c, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Medicine Man (5.10d, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Indian Summer (5.10-, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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The Last Stand (5.11a, Sport, Last Stand Wall)
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Peyote Trip (5.9, Sport, Last Stand Wall)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.8)
Perfect for building confidence on real rock or introducing new climbers to outdoor routes. The Chief Wall has several great options clustered together, making it easy to set up for a full day of moderate climbing.
Routes
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Bring on the Clowns (5.6, Sport, Assassin Wall)
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Kansas City Chiefs (5.6, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Little Chief (5.6, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Too Many Chiefs (5.6, Trad, Chief Wall)
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Quanah - Last Comanche Warrior Chief (5.7, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Yah-Keerah (5.7, Trad, Chief Wall)
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Fire Water (5.7+, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Sun Dog (5.7, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Chief Po-bisho-e-quasho (Iron Jacket) (5.8, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Geronimossimo (5.8, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.11b)
The meat and potatoes of Ruth Lake climbing. Good Medicine Area shines here with sustained technical climbing, while Chief Wall offers variety from pumpy sport routes to the occasional gear placement challenge.
Routes
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Don't Question Me or I'll Kill You Right Now (5.10a, Sport, Assassin Wall)
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Chief Mo'o-wai (Shaking Hand) (5.10a, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Chief Salad (5.10a, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Makhpiya-Luta (5.10a, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Hin-mah-too-yah-lat-tekt (5.10c, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Tatanka-lyotanka (5.10c, Sport, Chief Wall)
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White Buffalo (5.11b, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Black Elk (5.10a, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Chocolate Moose (5.10a, Trad, Good Medicine Area)
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The Bear Dance (5.10c, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Adore (5.11a, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Hard Routes (5.11c–5.12b)
For when you're feeling strong and want to test yourself on Ruth Lake's most demanding lines. Good Medicine Area dominates this category with technical face climbing that demands both power and precision.
Routes
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White Fish (5.11d, Sport, Chief Wall)
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White Wolf (5.11d, Sport, Chief Wall)
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Dream Catcher (5.11c, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Forgotten Warrior (5.11c, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Ghost Dance (5.12b, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Good Medicine (5.12a, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Spirit Guide (5.12a/b, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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Wind Walker (5.11c, Sport, Good Medicine Area)
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