Rock Canyon Climbing Guide
Rock Canyon is one of Utah County’s best “I have 3 hours, let’s go climb” spots — close enough to Provo that you can still pretend you’re responsible, but steep enough to make you forget that idea immediately. This page is just the curated hits: good routes, spread across different walls, with zero geology rabbit holes.
Beginner-Friendly Routes (5.6–5.9)
If you’re newer, shaking off rust, or bringing a friend who says “I used to climb” (dangerous sentence), this is the safest place to start. Mostly friendly movement, reasonable grades, and solid “first Rock Canyon day” picks.
Routes
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Dynamite Crack (5.6, Trad, Black Rose)
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Regular Route (5.7, Trad, PA’s Mother)
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Learners Permit (5.7, Sport, Jobsite)
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The Paper Route (5.7, Sport, Jobsite)
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Drivers Test (5.7, Sport, Jobsite)
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The Phantom Menace (5.7+, Sport, Tatooine)
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Mama’s Boy (5.8, Sport, PA’s Mother)
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Welcome to the Jungle (5.8, Sport, Wild)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
This is the “okay, I’m actually trying today” zone. Expect more sustained climbing and more moments where you suddenly care about footwork.
Routes
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Call it a Knight (5.10a, Sport, Ed & Terry Wall)
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The Right Stuff (5.10a, Sport, Milky Way Wall)
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Chupacabra (5.10a, Sport, Wild)
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Cambrian Grey (5.10c, Sport, Bug Barn Dance Wall)
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Raid (5.10d, Sport, Bug Barn Dance Wall)
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E.B. Jeebies (5.10d, Sport, PA’s Mother)
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Necrobeastiality (5.11a, Sport, Bug Barn Dance Wall)
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Lightning Bolt (5.11b/c, Sport, The Zoo)
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Classic / Iconic Routes
If it’s your first (or fifth) time in Rock Canyon, these are the routes that make the place feel like Rock Canyon. These are the “don’t leave without doing at least one” picks.
Routes
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Heart of Stone (5.8+, Sport, Black Rose Wall)
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Green Monster (5.9, Trad, Green Monster Slab)
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Jawa Jam (5.9, Sport, Tatooine)
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Exposed Cleavage (5.9, Sport, PA’s Mother)
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Curious George (5.8, Sport, George)
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The Zoo (5.10b, Sport, The Zoo)
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Black Rose (5.10d, Sport, Black Rose Wall)
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Epic / Long Routes
These are for when you want more than a quick crag lap — multi-pitch time, bigger position, and that “we’re committed now” feeling. Pack more water than you think. (Yes, even in January. Utah is rude like that.)
Routes
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Kyhv Peak | 7735 (“Squawstruck”) (5.11b, Sport, Kyhv Peak)
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Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (5.9, Sport, Layer Cake)
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Lord of the Slings (5.9, Sport, Trilogy Buttress)
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Covey Leader to Raven (5.9, Sport, Training Camp)
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Green Jello (5.9, Sport, Green Monster Slab)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
For when you’re trying to get absolutely humbled (on purpose). These are legit Rock Canyon testpieces — powerful, technical, and very good at exposing excuses.
Routes
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Yuji Feet (5.12a, Sport, Black Rose Wall)
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Fat Hippos (5.12a, Sport, Black Rose Wall)
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C’est Cool (5.12-, Sport, C’est Cool Wall)
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Rainy Day at the Zoo (5.12c, Sport, The Zoo)
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