Robbers Roost Climbing Guide
Robbers Roost delivers classic Utah desert tower climbing with a healthy mix of moderate trad routes and some gnarly aid lines. The area sees fewer crowds than the national parks but offers equally stunning red rock formations and quality stone. Access requires a decent drive on dirt roads, so plan accordingly and check conditions.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define the Robbers Roost experience. These routes showcase the best of what the area has to offer across all grades and styles.
Routes
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Planet X, via the route Problicom Motion (5.5, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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Power Chords (5.9, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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Prairie Dog (5.9, Sport, Viewfinder Towers)
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Princess Bong (5.9, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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South Face - Meat Log (5.9, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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South Side (5.9, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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Strummer (5.9, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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That's So Raven (5.9+, Trad, Raven's Retreat Tower)
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Angel of Death (A3, Trad, Long Dong Silver Area)
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The Sugar Daddy (A3, Trad, Long Dong Silver Area)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your desert tower legs under you. These routes offer solid introductions to the unique challenges of climbing in this remote corner of Utah's red rock country.
Routes
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Jafar's Burro (5.6, Trad, Head Spur)
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Unknown - Brigham Butte (5.7, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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Unknown 5.8 C1 (5.8, Trad, Jack's Knob)
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Cartman Tower - Wined and Dined (5.8+, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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The Whiskey Tour (5.8+, Trad, Castle Ardbeg (Viewfinder Towers))
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Long Dong Silver (5.9, Trad, Long Dong Silver Area)
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Booty Tower - South Face (5.9, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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Dirty Devil Tower - South Side (5.9, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step up your game with these more demanding lines. Solid technique and gear placement skills are essential for getting up these routes cleanly.
Routes
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Meat Log (5.10-, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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Bensass (5.10a, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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Johnny Hanksville of Mars (5.11a, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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Epic Routes
Big wall adventures that demand serious commitment and aid climbing skills. These routes separate the weekend warriors from the true desert rats.
Routes
- Darren's Dong (C1, Trad, Long Dong Silver Area)
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Bouldering
Limited but quality bouldering options for when you need a break from the towers or want to warm up those fingers.
Routes
- Boulder at Chambers Exit (V2-5+, Boulder, Chambers Exit Boulder)
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