Red Cliffs Desert Reserve Climbing Guide
Red Cliffs Desert Reserve offers solid sport and trad climbing on quality Navajo sandstone just outside St. George. The area features multiple walls with everything from beginner-friendly routes to challenging projects, making it a go-to spot for southern Utah climbers. Access is straightforward, but respect the desert tortoise habitat and stick to established trails.
Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on sandstone or introducing new climbers to the area. These routes offer good movement without being overly intimidating, though don't underestimate the pump factor on longer pitches.
Routes
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Facial Fracture (5.7a, Sport, Red Rock)
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Split Decisions (5.7+, Trad, Cougar Cliffs)
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Pigsty (5.8, Sport, Cougar Cliffs)
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Dry Socket (5.8, Sport, Red Rock)
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Petrophyte (5.8, Trad, Shady Side)
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Unknown 5.8 (5.8, Trad, Sunny Side)
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Pearls Before Swine (5.9, Sport, Cougar Cliffs)
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The Stem From Heck (5.9-, Trad, Shady Side)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11a)
The bread and butter of Red Cliffs climbing. These routes will keep you engaged without destroying you, perfect for working on technique or getting in solid volume on good rock.
Routes
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Sunday Afternoon w/ The Family (5.10a, Sport, Cougar Cliffs)
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Dirtbag (5.10a, Sport, Chuckwalla Wall)
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Solace (5.10a, Sport, Chuckwalla Wall)
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Welcome to Black Rocks (5.10a, Sport, Shady Side)
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Arachnaphobia (5.10b, Sport, Cougar Cliffs)
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Apostasy (5.10b, Sport, Chuckwalla Wall)
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Extinction (5.10b, Sport, Shady Side)
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Primordial Soup (5.10b, Sport, Shady Side West)
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Popular Demand (5.10c, Sport, Chuckwalla Wall)
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Tombstone Bullets (5.10c, Sport, Chuckwalla Wall)
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Turtle Soup (5.10c, Sport, Turtle Wall)
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Carapace (5.11a, Sport, Turtle Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.11b+)
For when you're feeling strong and want to test yourself. These routes demand solid technique and fitness, but they're worth the effort if you're looking to push your grade.
Routes
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Double Cross (5.11b, Sport, Chuckwalla Wall)
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As the Crows Fly (5.11b, Sport, Chuckwalla Wall)
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Missionary Position (5.11b, Sport, Cougar Cliffs)
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Apocalyptico (5.11c, Sport, Chuckwalla Wall)
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As the Jerks Fly (5.12a/b, Sport, Chuckwalla Wall)
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Armageddon (5.12b, Sport, Chuckwalla Wall)
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Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Red Cliffs climbing. These are the lines that locals recommend and visitors remember, representing the best movement and rock quality the area has to offer.
Routes
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Porca Miseria (5.9+, Sport, Cougar Cliffs)
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Swine of a Rock (5.9+, Sport, Cougar Cliffs)
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When Pigs Fly (5.9+, Sport, Cougar Cliffs)
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Face Plant (5.9+, Trad, Red Rock)
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The Fella's (5.9-, Sport, Shady Side)
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Entropy (5.9-, Sport, Shady Side)
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Chromatic Aberration (5.9-, Sport, Shady Side West)
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Friday Evening with Friends (5.10a, Sport, Cougar Cliffs)
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Petting the Pussycat (5.10b/c, Sport, Cougar Cliffs)
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Catatonic (5.10d, Sport, Cougar Cliffs)
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The Garden of Eden (5.10d, Sport, Chuckwalla Wall)
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Endangered Species (5.10d, Sport, Turtle Wall)
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Forsaken (5.11a/b, Sport, Cougar Cliffs)
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Bouldering
Limited but quality bouldering options for when you want to work power or just switch things up from the longer routes.
Routes
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Bud Hole (V8+, Boulder, Cougar Cliffs)
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Calvin Klein (V15, Boulder, Cougar Cliffs)
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