Pioneer Park St. George Climbing Guide
Pioneer Park offers some of the most accessible sandstone climbing in St. George, with everything from mellow trad routes to world-class boulder problems scattered across multiple formations. The park stays open year-round and provides a perfect introduction to desert climbing, though summer temps can be brutal. Respect closures during nesting season and keep noise down since you're literally climbing in the middle of town.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Pioneer Park's character. These lines offer the best movement, rock quality, and overall experience across all grades. If you're only here for a day, start with these.
Routes
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Dixie Rock (5.9c, Trad, Dixie Rock)
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Unicorn (5.9c, Trad, Dixie Rock)
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Child's Play (5.8b, Trad, Dixie Rock)
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Swirly Twirly Gum Drop (5.8b, Trad, Toehook Area)
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Baby Swiss (5.9c, Sport, The Narrow)
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Swiss Emmental (5.10c/d, Sport, The Narrow)
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Maiden Warrior (V4-6, Boulder, Boy Scout Cave)
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Pink Toes (V4-6, Boulder, Boy Scout Cave)
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Punch Party (V4-6, Boulder, Boy Scout Cave)
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The Mudslinger's Deicide (V5-6, Boulder, Dixie Cave)
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Thumbknown Destiny (V5-6, Boulder, Boy Scout Cave)
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Unknown Destany (V5-6, Boulder, Boy Scout Cave)
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Toehook Traverse (V5-6, Boulder, Toehook Area)
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Lil Smokeys (V0-14+, Boulder, Hot Dog Boulder)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on desert sandstone or introducing friends to outdoor climbing. The trad routes here are forgiving, and the sport climbs at The Narrow are well-protected. Boulder problems range from casual warm-ups to solid V1+ sends.
Routes
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Baby Swiss Left (5.9+, Sport, The Narrow)
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Rattata (V-easy3, Boulder, Backyard Overlook)
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Dixie Cave (V-easy3, Boulder, Dixie Rock)
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The Sun Traverse (V-easy3, Boulder, Picnic Table)
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Tender Foot (V0-14+, Boulder, Boy Scout Cave)
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Terminator T-Rex (V1+, Boulder, Boy Scout Cave)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
This is where Pioneer Park starts to show its teeth. The trad routes demand solid gear placement skills, while the sport routes at The Narrow offer sustained technical climbing. Boulder problems here will test your power and technique across multiple areas.
Routes
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Awesome Chossome (5.10b/c, Trad, Bird Nest Boulder)
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Choss Tower (5.10a/b, Trad, Bird Nest Boulder)
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Unknown 4 (5.10d, Sport, The Narrow)
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Lacy Swiss (5.11b/c, Sport, The Narrow)
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Bird Nest Traverse (V4, Boulder, Bird Nest Boulder)
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Cutfinger Traverse (V0-4, Boulder, Bird Nest Boulder)
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The Main Traverse (V4, Boulder, Toehook Area)
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Once Removed (V4-5, Boulder, Toehook Area)
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Open Project (V4-5, Boulder, Dixie Rock)
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Corncob Boulder Traverse (V4-6, Boulder, Boy Scout Cave)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
Elite-level climbing that puts Pioneer Park on the map for serious crushers. These routes and problems demand everything you've got, with some of the hardest boulder problems in the desert. Come prepared for long sessions and multiple attempts.
Routes
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Suburban Mailbox (5.11d, Trad, Bird Nest Boulder)
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Sun Traverse (Full) (5.12a, Boulder, Picnic Table)
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Act of Contrition (V15, Boulder, Convent)
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Rails of Sand (V1-25, Boulder, Boy Scout Cave)
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No Falcon Way (V25+, Boulder, Bird Nest Boulder)
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Celibacy (V25+, Boulder, Convent)
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Joan of Arc (V25+, Boulder, Convent)
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Picnic Table Traverse (V36A, Boulder, Picnic Table)
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