Pine Creek Canyon Zion Climbing Guide
Pine Creek Canyon offers some of Zion's most accessible traditional climbing, with the famous Brass Wall serving as the main attraction for trad climbers looking to get on classic Navajo sandstone. The area provides everything from mellow multi-pitch adventures to burly single-pitch testpieces, plus quality bouldering scattered throughout the drainage. Access is straightforward via the Pine Creek Trail, making it a go-to spot for both day trips and longer climbing sessions.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Pine Creek's character and reputation. These climbs offer the best combination of movement, position, and rock quality the area has to offer, spanning multiple grades but united by their exceptional nature.
Routes
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A Simple Expediency (5.8+, Trad, Flight Path Area)
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Car Talk (5.9+, Trad, Flight Path Area)
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Common Bond of Circumstance (5.9+, Trad, Flight Path Area)
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Moons Way (5.9-, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Go Greyhound (5.11-, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Fungus Folks (5.11a/b, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Alternative Facts (5.11b/c, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Freak Show (5.11c, Trad, Zion National Park)
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Tucupit nova (5.11c, Trad, Tucupit)
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Bush Pilots (5.10a, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Brass Balls (5.10b, Trad, Brass Wall)
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The Black Hole (5.10b, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Beginner Routes (5.4–5.9-)
Perfect for getting comfortable on Zion sandstone or warming up before harder sends. These routes offer solid introductions to the area's unique rock quality and protection style, with most being forgiving enough for leaders still building their trad skills.
Routes
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Arachnoworld (5.4a, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Heavy Spider Karma (5.6c, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Bird Cage (5.7a, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Boise (5.7a, Trad, Flight Path Area)
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Coeur d'Alene (5.7a, Trad, Flight Path Area)
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Birdland (5.7+, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Bus Stops Here (5.8-, Trad, Brass Wall)
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The Big Horn (5.8+, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Mo (AKA Nowhere Man) (5.8+, Trad, Brass Wall)
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The Hidden Persuaders (5.9-, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11a)
The meat and potatoes of Pine Creek climbing. These routes demand solid trad leading skills and represent the grade range where most climbers will find their projects. Expect sustained climbing on featured sandstone with varied protection opportunities.
Routes
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Belief in Proportion to the Evidence (5.10a, Trad, Flight Path Area)
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South Face Diagonal (5.10a, Trad, Zion National Park)
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Birdlaw (5.10b, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Chocolate Covered Bacon (5.10c, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Lovelace (5.10c/d, Trad, East Temple)
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Cut Away (5.10d, Trad, Brass Wall)
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Tucupit occidentalis (5.10+, Trad, Tucupit)
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Wages of Sin (5.10, Trad, Temple of Sinawava)
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East Face (5.11a, Trad, Zion National Park)
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Hard Routes (5.12–5.13b)
Elite-level climbing that showcases Pine Creek's potential for serious traditional routes. These climbs require advanced technique, mental fortitude, and extensive experience placing gear on demanding terrain. Not for the faint of heart.
Routes
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Monkeyfinger (5.12, Trad, Temple of Sinawava)
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The Moonlight Buttress (Free) (5.12c, Trad, Moonlight Buttress)
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The Silverback (5.12+, Trad, Temple of Sinawava)
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Morphology (5.12+, Trad, Tucupit)
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The Skeleton Key (5.13a, Trad, Tucupit)
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Touchstone Wall (Free) (5.13b, Trad, Cerberus Gendarme)
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Bouldering
Quality problems scattered throughout Pine Creek and surrounding areas provide excellent cross-training or rest day options. The sandstone offers everything from easy warm-ups to world-class testpieces, with problems ranging across all difficulty levels.
Routes
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Beach Bum (V0-4, Boulder, Left Fork North Creek (Subway))
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Lizard Cove (V2-3, Boulder, Taylor Creek Boulders)
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Dirty Dom (V3-, Boulder, Pine Creek)
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Poseidon (V3, Boulder, Pine Creek)
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Gina Town (V4, Boulder, Dragon Rock)
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Lucky Charms (V8, Boulder, Pine Creek)
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