Pfeifferhorn Area Climbing Guide
The Pfeifferhorn Area offers some of Utah's most diverse alpine and traditional climbing, from mellow ridge scrambles to technical slab routes. This high-alpine zone in the Wasatch delivers everything from beginner-friendly multi-pitch adventures to demanding technical lines, all with serious mountain character. Access requires a solid approach hike, so come prepared for a full day in the mountains.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define the area's character. These routes offer something special beyond their technical grade.
Routes
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North Ridge (5.4, Trad, Pfeifferhorn)
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Thunderbolt Ridge (5.4, Trad, Hogum Fork)
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West Face Couloir (5.6, Trad, Pfeifferhorn)
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Saved by the Turf (5.8, Trad, Hogum Fork)
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North of Heaven (5.9, Trad, Hidden Heavenly Slab)
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Lonely Sinner (5.10a, Trad, Hidden Heavenly Slab)
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Minions of Chaos (5.10+, Trad, Minions of Chaos Area)
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The 7th Way (5.11a/b, Trad, Hidden Heavenly Slab)
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Hogum's Heroes (5.11b, Trad, Hogum Fork)
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Pirate Treasure (5.11c+, Sport, Booty Wall Area)
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Hogum Z Right (WI3+, Trad, Hogum Fork)
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Beginner Routes (5.4–5.9+)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on Utah granite and quartzite. These routes offer solid introductions to multi-pitch climbing and alpine rock, with grades that won't leave you hanging but still demand respect for the mountain environment.
Routes
- Ornery Miss Garrett (5.9+, Trad, Diff'rent Strokes Buttress)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11b)
Step up your game with technical slab climbing and sustained crack systems. These routes demand solid gear placement skills and the mental game to handle runout sections on quality rock.
Routes
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The Bookends (aka Hold On) (5.10, Sport, American Fork Twins)
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All About The Volume (5.10c, Trad, Hidden Heavenly Slab)
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36 Yarrgs (5.10+, Trad, Booty Wall Area)
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And Son (5.11-, Trad, Minions of Chaos Area)
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Hard Routes (5.11c+–5.12)
Serious business for climbers ready to push their limits on steep, technical terrain. These routes separate the weekend warriors from the dedicated stone masters.
Routes
- Rule the World (5.11b/c, Sport, Booty Wall Area)
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