Pfeifferhorn Climbing Guide
Pfeifferhorn offers a solid mix of alpine routes and sport climbing across multiple walls in the Wasatch. The area is known for quality traditional climbing on the peak itself, plus developed sport routes on walls like Purple Wall and JHCOB Wall. Access can be seasonal depending on snow conditions, so check current trail conditions before heading up.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define the area. These have earned their reputation through quality movement, position, or just being downright fun to climb.
Routes
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Mad Swiller (5.10b+, Sport, Purple Wall)
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Drop Out (5.10c, Sport, Purple Wall)
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Gas Stoned (5.10, Sport, Purple Wall)
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Acapulco Arete (5.10b+, Sport, Waterfront, The)
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Slow Children (5.10d, Trad, Hogum Fork)
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Left Tributary (5.10d, Sport, Glass Ocean and Environs)
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Thin Fingers (5.11a, Trad, Hogum Fork)
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Bubbles & Booze (5.11a, Sport, Purple Wall)
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Tick Fever (5.11a, Trad, Wheeler-Newsome Wall)
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Weed Killer (5.11a, Trad, JHCOB Wall)
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Hogum's Heroes (5.11b, Trad, Hogum Fork)
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Clip it or Skip It (5.11b/c, Sport, Waterfront, The)
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Beginner Routes (5.4–5.9)
Perfect for getting your legs under you on longer routes or stepping into trad climbing. These routes offer good movement without being overly technical, making them ideal for building confidence on multi-pitch terrain.
Routes
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North Ridge (5.4, Trad, Pfeifferhorn)
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Thunderbolt Ridge (5.4, Trad, Hogum Fork)
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West Face Couloir (5.6, Trad, Pfeifferhorn)
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Northeast Face (5.6, Trad, Pfeifferhorn)
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Northwest Face (5.6, Trad, Pfeifferhorn)
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Northwest Ramp (5.6, Trad, Pfeifferhorn)
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Super Troopers (5.8, Trad, Hogum Fork)
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Godzilla (5.9, Trad, Hogum Fork)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.10d)
Solid routes for pushing your grade or getting quality mileage at your limit. Mix of sport and trad options across different walls gives you variety for whatever style you're working on.
Routes
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Collie Buddz (5.10a, Sport, Purple Wall)
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Purple Gurpel (5.10a, Sport, Purple Wall)
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Purple Pumper (5.10a, Sport, Purple Wall)
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Barefoot in Barbados (5.10a, Sport, Waterfront, The)
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Delta Y (5.10a, Sport, Glass Ocean and Environs)
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Retrobution (5.10a, Sport, JHCOB Wall)
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Standard Deviation (5.10a, Sport, JHCOB Wall)
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Tatoosh (5.10b, Trad, Hogum Fork)
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Hard Routes (5.12a–5.13+)
These are the routes you work for. Technical, demanding, and rewarding when you finally send. Expect to spend multiple sessions dialing in the sequences.
Routes
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Outside, It's America (5.12a, Sport, Beachball Crag)
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Strewn Masters of Gore (5.12b, Trad, Wheeler-Newsome Wall)
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Disco Captain (5.12b+, Sport, Waterfront, The)
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Whiplash (5.12b, Sport, JHCOB Wall)
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The Pane (5.12c, Sport, Glass Ocean and Environs)
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Disco Lizard (5.13a, Trad, Waterfront, The)
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Abydos (5.13a, Sport, JHCOB Wall)
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Osiris (5.13b/c, Sport, JHCOB Wall)
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Epic Routes
Big routes that demand your full attention and commitment. These are the adventures you'll remember long after the pump fades.
Routes
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Pentapitch (5.8b, Trad, Pentapitch Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon)
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Disco Chicken (5.11b/c, Sport, Waterfront, The)
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Wing Nut (5.11c, Trad, Wheeler-Newsome Wall)
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Weed B Gone (5.11c/d, Trad, JHCOB Wall)
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