Pentapitch Area Little Cottonwood Climbing Guide
The Pentapitch Area delivers some of Little Cottonwood's most varied climbing, from mellow multi-pitch adventures to technical single-pitch challenges on solid quartzite. This zone attracts climbers looking for everything from their first trad leads to hard sport projects, with the classic Pentapitch route serving as the area's crown jewel. Access is straightforward from the main canyon road, making it a go-to destination for both locals and visiting climbers.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define this area's character. These routes represent the best climbing experiences across different grades and styles.
Routes
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Pentapitch (5.8b, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Sasquatch (5.9+, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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The Buenaventura (5.10-, Trad, Coalpit Buttress)
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Lick Your Flint (5.10a, Trad, Coalpit Buttress)
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Precious Lost (5.10a, Trad, Coalpit Buttress)
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Coalpit Connection (5.10a/b, Trad, Coalpit Buttress)
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Nanook of the North (5.10+, Trad, Coalpit Buttress)
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Japanese Terraces (5.8b, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Nubbins Direct (5.10a, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Beginner Routes (5.5–5.9+)
Perfect for building your trad skills and getting comfortable with Little Cottonwood's unique rock. These routes offer solid protection and manageable grades while you dial in your gear placement and route-finding abilities.
Routes
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Starting Point Crack (5.5, Trad, Coalpit Buttress)
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Jackalope (5.6c, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Pentapass (5.7a, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Misunderstood (5.7a, Trad, Coalpit Buttress)
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Direct North Face (5.8b, Trad, Coalpit Buttress)
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King Cobra Corner (5.9-, Trad, Coalpit Buttress)
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Angering The Angered (5.9+, Trad, Coalpit Buttress)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.11a)
Step up your game with these technical challenges that demand solid movement skills and gear confidence. Mix of sport and trad options keeps sessions interesting while you push into harder grades.
Routes
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Ginseng (5.10a, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Nubbins to Nowhere (5.10b, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Dike from Hell (5.10b, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Endless Torment (5.10b, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Nuke the Whales (5.10b/c, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Pearls Before Swine (5.10c, Sport, Pentapitch Area)
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Loch Ness Monster (5.10d, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Lesbian Seagulls (5.10d, Sport, Pentapitch Area)
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Littlefoot (5.11a, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Neuromancer (5.11a, Sport, Pentapitch Area)
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Hard Routes (5.11b–5.12a)
Serious business for climbers ready to test their limits. These routes demand precise technique, mental fortitude, and solid experience on the rock type.
Routes
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Stifflers Stiffy (5.11b/c, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Flashdance (5.11c, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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House of Cards (5.11c, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Pudgy Gumbies (5.11d, Trad, Pentapitch Area)
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Refugees From Reality (5.12a, Sport, Pentapitch Area)
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The Show Must Go On (5.12a, Sport, Pentapitch Area)
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Boulders
When you need a break from the gear game or want to work specific moves, the area offers quality boulder problems.
Routes
- Neurosis (V8, Boulder, Jimbo's Boulders)
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