Onion Creek Moab Climbing Guide
Onion Creek offers some of Moab's most adventurous traditional climbing, with towering sandstone walls and spires that demand solid gear skills and route-finding abilities. This area attracts climbers looking for multi-pitch adventures and classic desert tower experiences, though access requires a high-clearance vehicle for the rough dirt road. The climbing here ranges from mellow multi-pitch routes to serious aid lines that'll test your commitment.
Beginner Routes (5.3–5.9)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on Moab multi-pitch or stepping up your trad game. These routes offer solid introductions to desert tower climbing without the full commitment of the area's more serious objectives.
Routes
-
The Forrest/Briggs Indirect (5.3, Trad, Citadel)
View on Mountain Project → -
East Face (5.6, Trad, Sari)
View on Mountain Project → -
The Wait of the World (5.8, Trad, Atlas)
View on Mountain Project → -
Terror Dreams (5.8+, Trad, Roadside Cragging)
View on Mountain Project → -
Something Wicked This Way Comes (5.9, Trad, Gothic Nightmare)
View on Mountain Project → -
Excalibur abbreviated (5.9, Trad, The Mongoose)
View on Mountain Project →
Intermediate Routes (5.9+–5.11a)
Step up to more technical climbing with routes that'll push your trad skills and endurance. These lines offer the full Onion Creek experience with sustained climbing and committing positions.
Routes
-
Maverick (5.9+, Trad, Hindu)
View on Mountain Project → -
Cooler than Jesus (5.10-, Trad, Top of the World Overlook)
View on Mountain Project → -
Dirt in Yer' Eye (5.10b, Trad, Roadside Cragging)
View on Mountain Project → -
Enter Sandman (5.10+, Trad, Citadel)
View on Mountain Project → -
Everyman's Endless Edge (5.11a, Trad, Trojan)
View on Mountain Project →
Hard Routes (5.12a–5.13a)
Serious business for strong climbers looking to test themselves on demanding free climbs. These routes represent some of the hardest free climbing in the area.
Routes
-
North Face (5.12a, Trad, The Hindu)
View on Mountain Project → -
Maverick (Free) (5.13a, Trad, The Hindu)
View on Mountain Project →
Classic Routes
The area's legendary lines that put Onion Creek on the map. These routes demand serious aid skills, big wall experience, and full commitment to the desert tower game.
Routes
-
Let it Go (grade 6 A6) (A6, Trad, Citadel)
View on Mountain Project → -
Iron Age Master (Aid, Trad, Gothic Nightmare)
View on Mountain Project → -
Nightmare on Onion Creek (Aid, Trad, Gothic Nightmare)
View on Mountain Project → -
Two Fall Wall (Aid, Trad, Gothic Nightmare)
View on Mountain Project → -
Castleton Tower - Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9, Trad, Castleton Tower)
View on Mountain Project → -
Rectory - North Face (5.8, Trad, The Rectory)
View on Mountain Project → -
Sister Superior - North Ridge (5.7, Trad, Sister Superior)
View on Mountain Project → -
Priest - East Face (5.8, Trad, The Priest)
View on Mountain Project → -
Nuns - East Face (5.8, Trad, The Nuns)
View on Mountain Project → -
Parriott Mesa - North Face (5.9, Trad, Parriott Mesa)
View on Mountain Project → -
Convent - South Face (5.8, Trad, The Convent)
View on Mountain Project → -
Ancient Art - Stolen Chimney (5.8 C1, Trad, Ancient Art)
View on Mountain Project → -
Fisher Towers - Titan (5.7 C2, Trad, Titan)
View on Mountain Project → -
Adobe Rock - North Face (5.9, Trad, Adobe Rock)
View on Mountain Project → -
Cottontail Tower - East Face (5.8, Trad, Cottontail Tower)
View on Mountain Project → -
Rabbit Ears - North Face (5.9, Trad, Rabbit Ears)
View on Mountain Project → -
Looking Glass Rock - Mirror Route (5.8, Trad, Looking Glass Rock)
View on Mountain Project → -
Jug Handle Arch - North Face (5.7, Trad, Jug Handle Arch)
View on Mountain Project →