Ogden Canyon Climbing Guide
Ogden Canyon serves up solid limestone climbing just minutes from town, with everything from mellow trad lines to burly sport routes. The canyon's multiple walls offer good variety for day sessions, though access can be tricky during high water periods in spring. This is classic Wasatch climbing—bring your rack and your route-finding skills.
Classic Routes
The must-dos that define Ogden Canyon climbing. These routes have earned their stars through decades of traffic, offering the perfect combination of quality rock, clean lines, and that indefinable something that makes you want to come back.
Routes
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Hole In The Rock (5.6, Trad, Hole in the Rock)
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Shotgun (5.6, Trad, Utah Wall)
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Third Wheel (5.6, Trad, Utah Wall)
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Unnamed Dihedral (5.6, Trad, Utah Wall)
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Utah Crack (5.6c, Trad, Utah Wall)
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Another Friend (5.75a, Trad, Upper 5.8 Wall)
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Unknown Dihedral (5.6, Trad, 5.8 Wall)
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Standard Crack (5.7a, Trad, 5.8 Wall)
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Layback Crack (5.6, Trad, Hole in the Rock)
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I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb (5.7, Trad, Utah Wall)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building your trad skills or introducing friends to multi-pitch. These routes offer clean rock and straightforward protection, making them ideal for longer sessions without the pump clock ticking.
Routes
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Left 2 (5.8+, Trad, 5.8 Wall)
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Apex (5.7+, Trad, Utah Wall)
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Apex Right (5.8, Trad, Utah Wall)
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Nuts and Bolts (5.8b, Trad, Nuts and Bolts)
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Intermediate Routes (5.9–5.11)
Where things get spicy. Mix of technical trad and pumpy sport climbing that'll test your skills without destroying your day. The Ice Wall sport routes are particularly good for working power endurance.
Routes
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Left 3 (5.9+, Trad, 5.8 Wall)
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Airtime (5.10c, Trad, Utah Wall)
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Lawyers, Guns, and Money (5.10c, Trad, Utah Wall)
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M37 (5.10-6a, Trad, Utah Wall)
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In The Pink (5.8+, Sport, Utah Wall)
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Carpal Tunnel Syndrome (5.11a, Sport, The Ice Wall)
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Two Man Tent Fever (5.11a, Sport, The Ice Wall)
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Decepticon (5.11b, Sport, The Ice Wall)
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Punchcard Bullshit (5.11d, Sport, The Ice Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
The business. These Ice Wall lines demand everything you've got—power, endurance, and the mental game to match. Come warmed up and ready to work.
Routes
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Walk of the Wild Child (5.12b, Sport, The Ice Wall)
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Dalmasism (5.12c, Sport, The Ice Wall)
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Sesame Street (5.12b/c, Sport, The Ice Wall)
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Bouldering
When you need a break from the gear circus or want to work specific moves, the boulder field delivers. Limited problems but they pack a punch.
Routes
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Patriot Crack (V25+, Boulder, Ogden Boulder Field)
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The Cave (V56C, Boulder, Ogden Boulder Field)
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