Mount Olympus Climbing Guide
Mount Olympus offers some of Salt Lake City's most accessible alpine-style climbing, with everything from mellow slabs to technical trad routes spread across multiple summits. The mountain sees heavy traffic year-round, so expect company on weekends and start early for the classics. Access is straightforward from the Bonneville Shoreline Trail, though approach times vary significantly depending on your objective.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Olympus climbing. These routes see traffic for good reason—they represent the best climbing the mountain has to offer across all grades and styles.
Routes
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Kamp's Ridge (5.6, Trad, North Summit)
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Valhallelujah! (5.7+, Trad, North Summit)
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Olympus Traverse Loop (OTL) (5.5, Trad, The West Slabs)
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Traverse to South Summit (Easy 5th, Trad, North Summit)
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Route 2 (5.7+, Trad, Pete's Rock Area)
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Scoop, The (V4, Boulder, Pete's Rock)
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Eliminate Face (V4, Boulder, Pete's Rock)
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Full Traverse (V3, Boulder, Pete's Rock)
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Boreas (WI3-4, Trad, Tolcat Canyon Ice Climbs)
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Turf War (WI3, M5, Trad, North Summit)
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Short Roof (5.7a, Sport, Sport Utility Wall)
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Route 6 (5.85b, Trad, Pete's Rock)
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Beginner Routes (5.5–5.8)
Perfect for getting your legs under you on real mountain rock. These routes offer solid introductions to multi-pitch climbing and route-finding without getting too spicy. The West Slabs are particularly forgiving for newer leaders.
Routes
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The West Slabs (5.5, Trad, The West Slabs)
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Geurt's Ridge (5.5, Trad, South Summit)
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Blister Hill Bypass to Forgotten Arete (5.5, Trad, South Summit)
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The Great Chimney (5.6, Trad, North Summit)
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Fuck It Dude, Let's Go Bowling (5.7, Trad, North Summit)
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The South Summit Push (5.7, Trad, South Summit)
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Waiting for Duc (5.7, Trad, South Summit)
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Where's Duc (5.7, Trad, South Summit)
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Route 5 (5.8+, Trad, Pete's Rock)
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Strange Rover (5.8b, Sport, Sport Utility Wall)
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Intermediate Routes (5.9–5.10)
Step it up with more technical movement and committing positions. These routes demand solid gear placement skills and confident movement on varied terrain. Pete's Rock offers some of the area's best moderate trad climbing.
Routes
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Hey, This Isn't Kamp's Ridge (5.9, Trad, North Summit)
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Valhalla (5.9, Trad, North Summit)
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Route 1 (5.9+, Trad, Pete's Rock)
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Wrangler Girls (5.9-, Sport, Sport Utility Wall)
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Bland Cherokee (5.9+, Sport, Sport Utility Wall)
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Route 4 (5.10b, Trad, Pete's Rock)
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Route 12 (5.10-, Trad, Pete's Rock)
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Route 15 (5.10d, Trad, Pete's Rock)
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Dead Baby Goat (5.10a, Trad, South Summit)
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Seriously where the f* is Duc** (5.10a, Trad, South Summit)
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Hiditaka Suzuki's Sidekick (5.10c, Sport, Sport Utility Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.11+)
The sharp end of Olympus climbing. These routes separate the weekend warriors from the dedicated. Expect sustained difficulty and serious commitment.
Routes
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Diamond Dave (5.11b, Sport, Pete's Rock)
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Standard Traverse (V15, Boulder, Pete's Rock Area)
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Route 1 Easy Variation (V12S, Boulder, Pete's Rock)
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Boulder Problems
Pete's Rock serves up quality problems when you need a break from the long approaches. Good warm-ups or cool-downs for the bigger objectives, with classic movement on solid quartzite.
Routes
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Scoop - Left, The (V4, Boulder, Pete's Rock)
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Scoop - Right, The (V4, Boulder, Pete's Rock)
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Stem (V4b, Boulder, Pete's Rock)
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Unknown 3 (V4b, Boulder, Pete's Rock)
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Unknown ABC (V4b, Boulder, Pete's Rock)
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