Moonlight Buttress Zion Climbing Guide
Moonlight Buttress offers some of Zion's most iconic big wall climbing, from mellow aid lines to world-class free routes on perfect Navajo sandstone. The area draws climbers for its stunning exposure and variety of styles, though you'll want to check current access conditions since parts of Zion require permits and have seasonal restrictions. This is desert tower climbing at its finest.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Zion climbing. These routes offer the best combination of quality rock, position, and movement.
Routes
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The Moonlight Buttress (Free) (5.12c, Trad, Moonlight Buttress)
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The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid) (5.8, Trad, Moonlight Buttress)
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Moonshadow (5.11b, Trad, Moonlight Buttress)
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Sunlight Buttress (5.11c, Trad, Paria Point)
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Vernal Equinox (5.10+, Sport, Leaning Wall)
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The Omen (5.11c+, Trad, Sub Peak of Meridian Tower)
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Rites of Passage (5.11+, Trad, Red Arch Mountain)
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Sheer Lunacy (5.10b, Trad, Moonlight Buttress)
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Lunar Ecstasy (5.10b, Trad, Moonlight Buttress)
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Wind Sand & Stars (5.12b+, Trad, Paria Point)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on Zion sandstone or warming up before harder objectives. These routes offer great exposure without the technical crux moves.
Routes
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Just Another Jam (5.8+, Trad, Carbuncle Buttress)
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Casual Sex (5.8b, Sport, Practice Cliffs)
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Cowboy Ridge (5.7, Trad, Mt Kinesava)
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Southwest Ridge (5.7, Trad, West Temple)
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Casual Route (5.7, Trad, East Temple)
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Led by Sheep (5.6, Trad, Aries Butte, East Side)
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Northeast Buttress (5.2, Trad, Northeast Buttress)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Solid routes for pushing your grade or getting quality mileage. Mix of sport and trad with good variety across different walls.
Routes
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Looney Tunes (5.10b, Trad, Moonlight Buttress)
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Made to be Broken (5.10+, Sport, Carbuncle Buttress)
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Riddler's Delight (5.10b, Trad, Carbuncle Buttress)
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Arete Sport Climb (5.10+, Sport, South Fork of Taylor)
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High Noon (5.11a, Sport, South Fork of Taylor)
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Pins and Needles (5.11b, Sport, South Fork of Taylor)
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Pulp Friction (5.10c, Sport, South Fork of Taylor)
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Sand Surfin' (5.10b, Sport, South Fork of Taylor)
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1/2 Route (5.10+, Sport, Namaste Wall)
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Dost Mitra (5.11a/b, Sport, Namaste Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
The business end of Zion climbing. These routes demand solid technique and fitness, with some representing the area's hardest free climbing.
Routes
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Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12, Trad, Moonlight Buttress)
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Na-Gah's Wall (5.12b+, Trad, Sub Peak of Meridian Tower)
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Edge of Reason (5.11c/d, Sport, Leaning Wall)
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Karmic Edges (5.11c, Sport, Leaning Wall)
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Bouldering
Limited boulder problems but worth checking out if you're looking for something different or warming up.
Routes
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Angled Crack (aka unknown) (, Boulder, )
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The Globe Traverse (, Boulder, )
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