Monster Tower Canyonlands Climbing Guide
Monster Tower Canyonlands delivers classic desert tower climbing and quality trad routes on Wingate sandstone. The area offers everything from mellow multi-pitch towers perfect for building skills to burly single-pitch cracks that'll test your limits. Access is straightforward via Island in the Sky, but bring plenty of water and plan for full days out here.
Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting comfortable on desert rock or stepping up your multi-pitch game. These routes offer solid movement on good rock without the commitment factor of the harder stuff.
Routes
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Kachina Tower South (5.8+, Trad, Hell Roaring Canyon > Kachina Spires)
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Sunset Tower (5.8+, Trad, Random - Unsorted)
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The Calla Way (5.9+, Sport, Small Adventures Wall / 313 Slabs)
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Put Your Hands on Me (5.9+, Sport, Small Adventures Wall / 313 Slabs)
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Kachina Tower North (5.8+, Trad, Hell Roaring Canyon > Kachina Spires)
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Yesterday's News (5.9+, Trad, Don Juan Spire)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
This is where Monster Tower really shines. Solid 5.10 climbing on featured sandstone with enough variety to keep sessions interesting and skills progressing.
Routes
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Grand Plan (5.10+, Trad, Grandview Point Overlook)
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Thar She Blows (5.10, Trad, Grandview Point Overlook)
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East Face (5.10+, Trad, Candlestick Tower)
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Southwest Corner (5.10, Trad, Candlestick Tower)
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Eye of the Newt (5.10b, Trad, Hell Roaring Canyon > Cauldrons)
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Lizard Action (5.10+, Trad, Luminous Being)
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Don Juan (5.10b, Trad, Don Juan Spire)
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Unknown (Southwest Arete) (5.10+, Trad, Don Juan Spire)
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Benson and Ledges (5.10+, Trad, Trad Wall AKA Green River Buttress)
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Seoul Games (5.10+, Trad, Trad Wall AKA Green River Buttress)
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Smokin' Deal (5.10+, Trad, Trad Wall AKA Green River Buttress)
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Caterpillar (5.10d, Trad, Cat Wall)
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100th Monkey (5.11a/b, Trad, Cat Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
The business end of Monster Tower climbing. These routes demand solid technique, mental game, and the fitness to back it up. Cat Wall dominates this grade range with sustained, technical climbing.
Routes
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Dunn Route (5.11c+, Trad, Moses)
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Sisyphus (5.11c+, Trad, Zeus)
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Pale Fire (5.12b+, Trad, Moses)
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Bad Cat (5.12b+, Trad, Cat Wall)
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Bagheera (5.12b+, Trad, Cat Wall)
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Cat Burglar (5.12b+, Trad, Cat Wall)
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Cat's Cradle (5.12b+, Trad, Cat Wall)
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Catastrophe (5.13-, Trad, Cat Wall)
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Abbienormal (aka Red Neck Rock Warrior) (5.13a, Trad, Cat Wall)
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Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Monster Tower. These routes represent the best climbing at their respective grades and showcase what makes this area special.
Routes
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Kor Route (5.10, Trad, Monster Tower)
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Think Ya Should (5.11c, Trad, Rim Routes)
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Super Ninja Chipmunk (5.11+, Trad, Trad Wall AKA Green River Buttress)
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9 Lives (5.11c, Trad, Cat Wall)
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Alley Cat (5.11d, Trad, Cat Wall)
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In Search Of Suds (5.10+, Trad, Washer Woman)
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North Ridge (5.11c+, Trad, Monster Tower)
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