Moe's Valley Southern Utah Climbing Guide
Moe's Valley is Southern Utah's premier bouldering destination, packed with high-quality sandstone problems that range from mellow warm-ups to world-class testpieces. The area draws climbers for its consistent rock quality, diverse movement styles, and concentrated clusters of problems that make for efficient sessions. Access is straightforward, but respect private property boundaries and pack out all trash to keep this gem open.
Classic Routes
The must-do problems that define the Moe's experience. These routes showcase the area's best movement and rock quality across all grades. Hit these first to understand what makes this place special.
Routes
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Spark Plug (V0-4, Boulder, Device Ignitor Boulder)
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Trackhoe Traverse (V5, Boulder, Backhoe)
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Backhoe Backdoor Traverse (V5, Boulder, Backhoe)
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Backhoe (V6, Boulder, Backhoe)
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Back Shots with the Hoes (V6+, Boulder, Backhoe)
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Trackhoe Traverse Extension (V6, Boulder, Backhoe)
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Escape Artist (V?, Boulder, Big Boy Area)
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Surprise Velocity (V?, Boulder, Duality)
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Glorified Gerbils (V?, Boulder, Pack Rat Boulder)
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Duality Backside Traverse (V?, Boulder, Duality)
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Bat Cave (V?, Boulder, Duality)
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Beginner Routes (V0–V2)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on Moe's sandstone or warming up before harder sends. These problems offer great movement variety and help you dial in the unique friction and holds that make this area special.
Routes
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Baby Shark (V0-1, Boulder, Big Boy Area)
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Zippo (V-Easy, Boulder, Device Ignitor Boulder)
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Out of the Womb (V1+, Boulder, Backhoe)
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Banana Stand Money (V1-5-, Boulder, Jabberwock Boulder)
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Cheshire Cat (V2-5+, Boulder, Jabberwock Boulder)
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Cornered (V0-4, Boulder, Tee Pee Boulder)
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Bunsen Burner (V0-4, Boulder, Device Ignitor Boulder)
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Simple BIC (V0-4, Boulder, Device Ignitor Boulder)
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Intermediate Routes (V3–V6)
The bread and butter of Moe's Valley. These problems showcase the area's signature movement and will keep you busy for multiple sessions. Great for pushing your grade or getting solid mileage on quality stone.
Routes
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Donald Trump for President (V3, Boulder, Jabberwock Boulder)
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Backhoe Left (V4, Boulder, Backhoe)
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Backhoe Middle (V3, Boulder, Backhoe)
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Backhoe Right (V5, Boulder, Backhoe)
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Camacho for President (V4, Boulder, Jabberwock Boulder)
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Bandersnatcher (V3, Boulder, Jabberwock Boulder)
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Device Igniter Right (V3, Boulder, Device Ignitor Boulder)
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Molotov (V3, Boulder, Device Ignitor Boulder)
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Altitude Right (V6, Boulder, Altitude Stasis)
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Device Igniter Left (V6, Boulder, Device Ignitor Boulder)
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Bellafonte (V5-6C, Boulder, Big Boy Area)
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Hard Routes (V7+)
The heavy hitters that put Moe's on the map. These problems demand everything you've got and represent some of the finest hard bouldering in the desert. Come prepared for long sessions and bring your A-game.
Routes
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Bench (V7-7A+, Boulder, Big Boy Area)
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Moe's Before Hoes (V8, Boulder, Backhoe)
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Moe's Without Hoes (V7+, Boulder, Backhoe)
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Altitude Stasis (V9, Boulder, Altitude Stasis)
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Dirt Cheap (V10+, Boulder, Beach/Meatbag)
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Magic Touch (V13, Boulder, Beach/Meatbag)
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Meatbag (V12+, Boulder, Beach/Meatbag)
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Backhoe Far Right (V15, Boulder, Backhoe)
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