Mill Creek Moab Climbing Guide
Mill Creek delivers some of Moab's most varied climbing, from mellow trad lines to world-class sport routes on perfect sandstone. The area spans multiple crags including the popular Sunny Side, technical Lower Mill Creek walls, and the steep Wicked Crag. Access is straightforward, but respect private property and seasonal wildlife closures.
Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your bearings on Moab sandstone or introducing friends to the area. These routes offer solid movement without the commitment of harder grades.
Routes
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Safari (5.6b, Trad, Lower Mill Creek)
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The Birthday Route (5.9+, Sport, The Sunny Side)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
The sweet spot for most Mill Creek sessions. Plenty of variety across different walls, with good options for both sport and trad climbers looking to push their grades.
Routes
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Magic Carpet Ride (5.10a, Sport, The Sunny Side)
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Mother Hen (5.10a, Sport, The Sunny Side)
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Black Hearted Woman (5.10b, Sport, The Sunny Side)
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Grateful He's Dead (5.10d, Sport, The Sunny Side)
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Nate and Renee's (5.10+, Sport, Other Mill Creek Areas)
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Easy Way Out (5.11a, Trad, Other Mill Creek Areas)
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Pissing On His Grave (5.11b, Sport, The Sunny Side)
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Going the Distance (5.11c, Sport, Other Mill Creek Areas)
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Black Widow Arete (5.11c, Sport, Sunny Side)
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Fox Trot (5.11+, Trad, Lower Mill Creek)
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Hasta La Vista (5.11+, Trad, Lower Mill Creek)
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Silver Back (5.11+, Trad, Lower Mill Creek)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
Serious business for strong climbers. These routes demand technical precision and power, representing some of Mill Creek's most challenging lines.
Routes
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Black Sunshine (5.12b, Trad, Other Mill Creek Areas)
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Out of Africa (5.12b/c, Trad, Lower Mill Creek)
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Axis of Evil (5.12b/c, Trad, Lower Mill Creek)
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Genetic Denial (5.12c, Trad, Lower Mill Creek)
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Techno Christ (5.12c, Sport, Wicked Crag)
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Flaming Groovy (5.12c, Sport, Wicked Crag)
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Sexy Beast (5.12d, Sport, Lower Mill Creek)
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Crush the Skull (5.12d, Sport, Wicked Crag)
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Wild Kingdom (5.12d, Trad, Lower Mill Creek)
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The Trad Warrior (5.12+, Trad, Lower Mill Creek)
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Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Mill Creek's reputation. These routes offer exceptional movement, position, or historical significance—worth the trip regardless of your usual grade range.
Routes
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Pickpocket (5.11d, Sport, Other Mill Creek Areas)
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Petrified Feline (5.11c+, Trad, Lower Mill Creek)
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Walk The Line (5.11c+, Trad, Lower Mill Creek)
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Scavenger (5.12+, Sport, Wicked Crag)
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The Paper Crane (5.13a, Sport, Lower Mill Creek)
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Bowsprit (5.13a, Sport, Wicked Crag)
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Wave of Mutilation (5.13a, Sport, Wicked Crag)
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Tiki Man (5.13c, Sport, Wicked Crag)
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The Bleeding (5.14b, Sport, Wicked Crag)
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