Millcreek Canyon Climbing Guide
Millcreek Canyon offers some of Salt Lake City's most accessible sport climbing, with solid limestone walls scattered throughout the canyon. The area sees climbers year-round thanks to its variety of aspects and relatively low elevation, though summer can get pretty toasty on the south-facing walls. Check current access restrictions before heading up—some areas have seasonal closures for wildlife protection.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Millcreek climbing. These see traffic for good reason—whether it's the movement, position, or just plain fun factor.
Routes
-
Too Jug to Fail (5.11a, Sport, Jug Haul Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Zzzzzzzz (5.11a, Sport, The Stitches Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Code Brown (A1+, Trad, Code Blue Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Mr. Milkbones (V2, Boulder, The Stitches Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Sticky Fishes (V2, Boulder, The Stitches Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Henry's Corner (5.7a, Sport, Millcreek Monster)
View on Mountain Project → -
Big Jugs Are Nice, but Nipples are Necessary (5.8, Sport, Jug Haul Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Crystal Clear (5.10+, Sport, Church Fork Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Itchy Stitches (5.10-, Sport, The Stitches Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
The Dark Crystal (5.12b, Sport, Church Fork Wall)
View on Mountain Project →
Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on real rock or introducing friends to outdoor climbing. These routes offer good movement on generally solid stone without being too intimidating.
Routes
-
Not Quite As Loose As It Looks (5.8-5b, Sport, Millcreek Monster)
View on Mountain Project → -
Brave Brother Badass (5.8, Sport, Jug Haul Wall)
View on Mountain Project →
Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
The bread and butter of Millcreek climbing. These routes will keep you busy for seasons, offering everything from technical face climbing to powerful sequences.
Routes
-
Kelly's Dirty Diaper (5.10a/b, Sport, The Log)
View on Mountain Project → -
Sassy Sister Slim (5.10a, Sport, Jug Haul Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
B-Buzz-Buzz (5.10a, Sport, The Stitches Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Frontside Traverse (5.10, Sport, The Stitches Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
High In The Thin, Cold Air (5.10, Sport, The Stitches Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Itchy Sticky (5.10b, Sport, The Stitches Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
For A Few Crystals More (5.10d, Sport, Church Fork Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Sting (5.11-, Sport, The Stitches Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Fist Full of Crystals (5.11a, Sport, Church Fork Wall)
View on Mountain Project →
Hard Routes (5.11+–5.12+)
When you're ready to get worked. These routes demand solid technique and fitness, representing some of the canyon's most challenging single-pitch climbing.
Routes
-
Like Sedona, Like Windwalker (5.11+, Sport, Church Fork Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
QuickJug (5.11c, Sport, Jug Haul Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Thre The Hard Way (5.11+, Sport, The Stitches Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Backside Traverse (5.11c+, Sport, The Stitches Wall)
View on Mountain Project → -
Blastoid Variant (5.11c/d, Sport, Church Fork Wall)
View on Mountain Project →
Epic Routes
For when you want to make a day of it. Bring extra water, snacks, and patience—these routes reward commitment with unforgettable experiences.
Routes
- A Little Adventurous (Multi-pitch, Sport, Millcreek Monster)
View on Mountain Project →