Maple Canyon Climbing Guide
Maple Canyon is Utah's conglomerate climbing paradise, offering everything from beginner-friendly sport routes to world-class hard sends on unique cobblestone rock. The canyon's diverse crags provide excellent year-round climbing, with shaded walls for summer sessions and sunny exposure for winter days. Access is straightforward, but respect private property and follow Leave No Trace principles to keep this gem open.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Maple Canyon climbing. These routes represent the best of what the area offers, from moderate classics to cutting-edge test pieces.
Routes
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The Grecian Highway (5.9, Sport, Thessalonian Buttress)
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Eagle's Nest (5.10c, Sport, The Early Bird Crag)
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King Kong (5.10d, Sport, King Kong)
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The Angry Inch (5.11b, Sport, Pipeline)
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Towing Jehovah (5.12b, Sport, Jehovah Wall)
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Special Forces (5.13b, Sport, The Compound)
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Bollocks (5.13b, Sport, The Compound)
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Cracker (5.13b, Sport, The Compound)
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Death From Above (5.13b, Sport, The Compound)
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Fat Lady (5.13c, Sport, The Compound)
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Close Quarters Combat (5.13+, Sport, The Compound)
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Def-Con 1 (5.14-, Sport, The Compound)
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Cannonball (5.14a/b, Sport, The Compound)
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Beginner Routes (5.9–5.11a)
Perfect for building confidence on Maple's unique cobble features. These routes offer solid movement and good protection while you get used to the canyon's distinctive rock texture.
Routes
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In Cobble We Trust (5.10c, Sport, The Early Bird Crag)
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King Cobble (5.10c, Sport, The Early Bird Crag)
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The Edge of Glory (5.10d, Sport, The Early Bird Crag)
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Morning Buzz (5.10d, Sport, The Early Bird Crag)
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Falcon and Gulo (5.11a, Sport, The Early Bird Crag)
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Intermediate Routes (5.11a–5.11d)
Step up your game with these technical challenges that showcase Maple's demanding movement style. Mix of sport routes and boulder problems for well-rounded sessions.
Routes
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Taking the Bullet (5.11a, Sport, Bridge Area)
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Holes In The Universe (5.11b, Sport, The Early Bird Crag)
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The Percolator (5.11b, Sport, The Early Bird Crag)
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Angry Birds (5.11c, Sport, The Early Bird Crag)
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Mr. Hanky (5.11c, Sport, The Compound)
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One Percent (5.11d, Sport, The Compound)
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Hard Routes (5.12a–5.13a)
Serious business for strong climbers ready to tackle Maple's demanding upper-grade terrain. These routes require solid technique and power on the canyon's unforgiving cobble.
Routes
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Watermelon Sugar (5.12a, Sport, Ammo Dump Wall)
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Grip Tease (5.12a, Sport, Impact Zone Wall)
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Cobble Gobble (5.12a, Sport, Impact Zone Wall)
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GI Joe Kung Fu Grip (5.12b, Sport, The Compound)
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Gun Tower (5.12c, Sport, The Compound)
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3-2-1 (5.13a, Sport, The Compound)
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911 (5.13a, Sport, The Compound)
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Silent but Deadly (5.13a, Sport, The Compound)
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Boulders
Quality boulder problems scattered throughout the canyon for those who prefer the crashpad life. Great for warming up or dedicated bouldering sessions.
Routes
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King Cobble (V5, Boulder, The Early Bird Crag)
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Squeal Like a Pig (V6?, Boulder, Maple Canyon)
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Buzzards over Lexington (V12, Boulder, The Early Bird Crag)
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Pullet Interrupted (V+13, Boulder, The Early Bird Crag)
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Cobble in the Sky (, Boulder, Maple Canyon)
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Gaucho (, Boulder, Maple Canyon)
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Amplification (, Boulder, Maple Canyon)
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Gitmo (, Boulder, Maple Canyon)
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