Long Canyon Moab Climbing Guide
Long Canyon delivers classic Wingate sandstone climbing with everything from mellow trad routes to burly offwidth challenges. The area features several distinct walls including Maverick Buttress, The Shipyard, and Deadman's Buttress, making it a solid destination for multi-day trips. Access is straightforward via Potash Road, but respect private property boundaries and pack out all trash.
Classic Routes (5.10+–5.11c+)
The must-do lines that put Long Canyon on the map. These routes represent the area's best climbing at the grade and are worth planning your trip around.
Routes
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Gunsmoke (5.11a, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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High Noon (5.11a, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Maverick Buttress| 7703 (5.11+, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Miss Kitty Likes It That Way (5.11c, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Quickdraw (5.11b, Sport, Maverick Buttress)
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Tequila Sunrise (5.10+, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Night Vision (5.11+, Trad, The Shipyard)
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Seaworthy (5.11+, Trad, The Shipyard)
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Dawn of an Error (5.11+, Trad, Deadman's Buttress)
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Dragon's Lair (5.11c+, Trad, Deadman's Buttress)
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Skinny Puppy (5.11a/b, Trad, Space Tower Area)
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Sidewinder (5.11c, Trad, Pucker Pass)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.10d)
Solid moderate climbing that'll keep you engaged without destroying you. Great for building confidence on desert rock and dialing in your rack skills.
Routes
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Hot Toddy (5.10b, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Round-Up (5.10c, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Saddle Sores (5.10-, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Texas Two Step (5.10b, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Electronic Battleship (5.10b, Trad, The Shipyard)
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Nina (5.10d, Trad, The Shipyard)
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Shipwrecked (5.10a, Trad, The Shipyard)
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Chopper (5.10+, Trad, Deadman's Buttress)
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Program Director (5.10c, Trad, Deadman's Buttress)
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Spawn of a Terror (5.10+, Trad, Deadman's Buttress)
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Unknown 11 (5.10+, Trad, Deadman's Buttress)
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Bonafide (5.10, Trad, Space Tower Area)
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Hard Routes (5.12- and up)
Serious business for strong climbers looking to push their limits on desert stone. Bring your A-game and expect to work for these sends.
Routes
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Boot Hill (5.12b, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Bump and Grind (5.12b+, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Just the Tip! (5.12b, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Caution to the Wind (5.12b+, Trad, The Shipyard)
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The Supercavitator (5.12+, Trad, The Shipyard)
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Torpedo Bay (5.12b+, Trad, The Shipyard)
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Valjean (5.12-, Trad, The Shipyard)
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Chalk is Cheap (5.12-, Trad, Deadman's Buttress)
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The Dark Passenger (5.12-, Trad, Deadman's Buttress)
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Shit Eatin' Grin (5.12b, Trad, Deadman's Buttress)
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Gettin' Schooled (5.12b, Trad, Maverick Buttress)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on Moab sandstone or warming up before harder sends. These routes offer good introduction to the area's rock quality and protection style.
Routes
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Mocha Chocolate Yaya (5.9, Trad, Deadman's Buttress)
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Teacher Conference (5.8+, Trad, Deadman's Buttress)
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Handle with Care (5.9, Trad, Wall Street South)
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Hallow Souls (5.9, Trad, Space Tower Area)
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Bouldering
Quality problems for when you want to dial in moves without the commitment of long routes. The MOLCOW area offers solid variety in a concentrated zone.
Routes
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JHOW (V1-5-, Boulder, Mouth of Long Canyon Offwidth Boulders (MOLCOW area))
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Keep the Motor Running (V4, Boulder, Mouth of Long Canyon Offwidth Boulders (MOLCOW area))
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MOLCOW (V4, Boulder, Mouth of Long Canyon Offwidth Boulders (MOLCOW area))
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