Lone Peak Cirque Climbing Guide
Lone Peak Cirque is Utah's premier alpine trad climbing destination, offering everything from mellow multi-pitch adventures to world-class hard routes on bulletproof quartzite. The cirque sits high in the Wasatch at over 10,000 feet, so expect a solid approach hike and afternoon thunderstorms in summer. Access requires navigating private property—respect all posted signs and stick to established trails.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Lone Peak's character. These routes span all grades but share exceptional rock quality, position, and that indefinable classic factor.
Routes
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Penny Arcade (5.9c, Trad, Flying Buttress)
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The Great Escape (5.9+ 5c, Trad, South Summit Wall)
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Wonderwall (5.9 5c, Trad, Summit Wall)
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The Undone Book (5.9+ R, Trad, Summit Wall)
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Shadow of Death (5.10 6b, Trad, Hyperform Wall)
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P-38 (5.10+ 6b+, Trad, South Summit Wall)
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Vertical Smile (5.10a 6a, Trad, Summit Wall)
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Hound's Tooth (5.11c/d, Trad, Flying Buttress)
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Vandals Took the Handle (5.11a 6c, Trad, Hyperform Wall)
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Jolly Green Giant (5.11b 6c, Trad, Hyperform Wall)
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Da Black and Gold (5.11-, Trad, South Summit Wall)
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Free Mexican Air Force (5.11b, Trad, South Summit Wall)
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Taivallista (5.11b/c, Trad, South Summit Wall)
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Be Here Now (5.11c+, Trad, Summit Wall)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your multi-pitch legs under you or enjoying moderate alpine adventures. These routes offer solid rock, reasonable protection, and manageable grades for building confidence in the mountains.
Routes
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The Open Book (5.7+ 5a, Trad, Summit Wall)
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The Answer (5.8b, Trad, Question Mark Wall)
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Pika Paradise (5.8 5b, Trad, Question Mark Wall)
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Lowe Route (5.8 5b, Trad, Question Mark Wall)
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Book Of Rhymes (5.85b, Trad, Hyperform Wall)
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Center Thumb (5.9 5c, Trad, South Summit Wall)
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Expanding Man (5.9 5c, Trad, South Summit Wall)
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Gold Wall (5.9 5c, Trad, South Summit Wall)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step up your game with sustained technical climbing and committing multi-pitch routes. These lines demand solid trad skills and the fitness for longer days in the alpine.
Routes
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Triple Overhangs (5.10a 6a, Trad, Summit Wall)
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Flying Buttress Route (5.10b, Trad, Flying Buttress)
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Mosaic Wall (5.10b, Trad, Flying Buttress)
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Storm Watch (5.10b/c, Trad, Flying Buttress)
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Just Barely (5.10- 6a, Trad, Hyperform Wall)
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Hyperform (5.10b, Trad, Hyperform Wall)
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Out of the Question (5.10b, Trad, Question Mark Wall)
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The Doomsday Book (5.10b, Trad, Question Mark Wall)
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Inner Vision (5.10b 6a+, Trad, South Summit Wall)
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Megaform (5.11a 6c, Trad, Hyperform Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
Elite-level climbing that puts Lone Peak on the world map. These routes demand exceptional technique, mental fortitude, and years of trad climbing experience.
Routes
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Dirty Harry (5.12a, Trad, Question Mark Wall)
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Question Mark Wall Route (5.12b, Trad, Question Mark Wall)
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King Thistle (5.12b+, Trad, Summit Wall)
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Wonderette (5.12b+, Trad, Summit Wall)
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Krumholtz Line (5.12c, Trad, Question Mark Wall)
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Rareform (5.12d, Trad, Question Mark Wall)
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Interrogator (5.13a, Trad, Question Mark Wall)
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Interrobang (5.14a, Sport, Question Mark Wall)
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