Little Wild Horse Canyon Area Climbing Guide
The Little Wild Horse Canyon area offers some of Utah's most diverse desert tower and crack climbing, with everything from mellow slabs to burly offwidths scattered across multiple distinct crags. This zone is perfect for climbers looking to sample classic Entrada sandstone without the crowds, though access can involve some route-finding through the desert terrain.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define the character of Little Wild Horse Canyon. These routes represent the best climbing the area has to offer across all grades.
Routes
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Private Pizza (5.9, Trad, Private Pizza Wall)
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Day of Endless Chocolate (5.8+, Trad, E Crags (DBC Canyon))
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Endless Journey 5.9- (5.8, Trad, E Crags (DBC Canyon))
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Unknown Finger Crack (5.9, Trad, Private Pizza Wall)
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Unknown Handcrack (5.8+, Trad, Private Pizza Wall)
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Unknown Offwidth (5.9+, Trad, Private Pizza Wall)
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Division Bell Crack (5.8b, Trad, Swaseyland)
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Where Grandmas fear to tread (5.8b, Trad, Swaseyland)
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Flo and Al's/School For Advanced Suffering (V-easy 3, Trad, Factory Butte)
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Eagle Rock (C2, Trad, Swaseyland)
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Day of Atonement (5.8, Trad, E Crags (DBC Canyon))
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Death by Chocolate (5.8, Trad, E Crags (DBC Canyon))
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Beginner Routes (5.4–5.8)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on desert sandstone or enjoying a relaxed day out. These routes offer solid introductions to the area's character without the commitment of the harder lines.
Routes
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Fun Size (5.4a, Trad, E Crags (DBC Canyon))
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Road to Mecca, The (5.4b, Trad, E Crags (DBC Canyon))
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Peanut Butter Jar, The (5.4b, Trad, Swaseyland)
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A Walk on the Swasey Side (5.6c, Trad, Swaseyland)
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Party Pizza (5.7, Sport, Private Pizza Wall)
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Bloody Slab (5.7+, Trad, E Crags (DBC Canyon))
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
The meat and potatoes of the area. These routes will test your desert climbing skills with varied terrain from technical face climbing to sustained crack systems.
Routes
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James Tower AKA The Lightbulb (5.10a/b, Trad, Red Corner)
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Black Blood (5.10b, Trad, Private Pizza Wall)
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Cheek Full of Chaw (5.10b, Trad, Private Pizza Wall)
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Pat's Pizza (5.10b, Trad, Private Pizza Wall)
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Teeter Totter (5.10b, Trad, Private Pizza Wall)
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Maura's Tower - Join the Party (5.10b+, Trad, Swaseyland)
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Pleasant Surprise Tower (5.10+, Trad, Swaseyland)
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Broken Cross (5.10+, Trad, Swaseyland)
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I Want that Body! (5.11+, Trad, Wild Horse Butte)
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Unknown Hueco Sport Route (5.11c, Sport, Red Corner)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
For when you're ready to push your limits on desert stone. These routes demand solid technique and mental game.
Routes
- Red Corner (5.11c+, Trad, Red Corner)
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