Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Guide
Little Cottonwood Canyon is Utah's granite playground, offering everything from mellow trad lines to world-class bouldering on some of the most beautiful rock in the Wasatch. The canyon sees heavy traffic year-round, so get there early for parking and expect crowds on weekends. Access can be restricted during high avalanche danger in winter.
Classic Routes
The canyon's must-do lines that define the area. These routes have earned their reputation through decades of ascents and represent the best of what Little Cottonwood has to offer.
Routes
-
Robbins Crack (5.10, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Robbins' Route (5.10, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
The Great White Icicle (WI3, Trad, Great White Icicle Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Seams Easy (V5, Boulder, Farside)
View on Mountain Project → -
Green Slab Center (V0-4, Boulder, Gate Boulder)
View on Mountain Project → -
Don't Fall (V3-6A, Boulder, Swamp Boulders)
View on Mountain Project → -
Standard Overhang (V3-6A, Boulder, Standard Overhang Boulder)
View on Mountain Project → -
Riverside Arete (V3-6A, Boulder, Shivers Boulder)
View on Mountain Project → -
Twisted (V4-6B, Boulder, Copperhead Boulder)
View on Mountain Project → -
Surfboard (V4-6B, Boulder, 5 Mile Boulders)
View on Mountain Project → -
Jim (V4-6B, Boulder, Shivers Boulder)
View on Mountain Project → -
Feck (V4-6B, Boulder, Shivers Boulder)
View on Mountain Project →
Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building your trad rack confidence or getting comfortable with the canyon's granite. These routes offer solid protection and manageable grades while you dial in your systems.
Routes
-
Schoolroom (5.6, Trad, Schoolroom Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Over Easy (5.7, Trad, The Egg)
View on Mountain Project → -
The Standard Thumb (5.7, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Just Say No to Crack (5.7, Sport, The Egg)
View on Mountain Project → -
Schoolroom Direct Variation (5.7, Trad, Schoolroom Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Huevos Rancheros (5.7-5.8, Trad, The Egg)
View on Mountain Project → -
Groovin' (5.8+, Trad, The Egg)
View on Mountain Project → -
Lowe Blow (5.9+, Trad, The Egg)
View on Mountain Project → -
S-Direct (5.9+, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Spring Madness (5.9+, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project →
Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step up your game with these technical challenges. Expect sustained climbing, tricky gear placements, and the kind of routes that'll have you coming back to work out the sequences.
Routes
-
Back to Black (5.10, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Morpheus (5.10a, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Leggo My Eggo (5.10a, Sport, The Egg)
View on Mountain Project → -
Spring Fever (5.10a/b, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Matrix Reloaded (5.10d, Sport, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Nob Job (5.10d, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
S-Matrix (5.10d, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Ghouls Night Out (5.11b, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Spring and Fall (5.11c, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
Coyne Crack (5.11d, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project → -
S-Crack (5.11d, Trad, The Thumb Area)
View on Mountain Project →
Hard Routes (5.12+ & V7+)
The canyon's elite offerings. These routes demand everything you've got and then some. Come prepared with solid technique, mental game, and plenty of time to work the moves.
Routes
-
El Guapo (5.12b, Trad, East Gate Buttress)
View on Mountain Project → -
Bloodline (5.12c, Trad, East Gate Buttress)
View on Mountain Project → -
Sidewinder (5.12+, Trad, East Gate Buttress)
View on Mountain Project → -
Jaws (5.12+, Sport, Waterfront)
View on Mountain Project → -
Split (V7, Boulder, Wasatch Resort)
View on Mountain Project → -
Shivers (V7, Boulder, Shivers Boulder)
View on Mountain Project → -
Steven's Arete (V7, Boulder, Near Big Mouth Boulder)
View on Mountain Project → -
Citizen Dildo (V7, Boulder, Citizen Dildo Boulder)
View on Mountain Project →