La Sal Mountains Climbing Guide
The La Sals offer some of Utah's most diverse climbing, from solid sport routes on quality sandstone to excellent bouldering and even ice climbing in winter. The area sees fewer crowds than Moab's main crags, making it perfect for climbers looking to escape the circus while still getting on great rock. Access is generally straightforward, though some areas require high-clearance vehicles.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define La Sal climbing. These are the lines everyone talks about and the ones that'll give you the best taste of what makes this area special. From perfect beginner sport routes to burly trad lines, these classics showcase the full spectrum of La Sal sandstone.
Routes
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Good Times (5.7, Sport, Good Times Wall)
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Sweet Cheeba (5.7, Sport, Ganja Wall)
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Dope (5.10a, Sport, Ganja Wall)
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Yeyo (5.11b, Sport, Ganja Wall)
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Black Widow Arete (5.11c, Sport, Sunny Side)
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Techno Christ (5.12c, Sport, Wicked Crag)
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Flaming Groovy (5.12c, Sport, Wicked Crag)
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Pabst Blue Ribbon (5.8, Trad, Hideout Wall)
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Hatin Pagans (5.11c+, Trad, Ganja Wall)
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The Gauntlet (Multi-pitch, Trad, Gauntlet Wall)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on Utah sandstone or introducing new climbers to the area. Mix of sport and trad options means you can focus on movement without gear stress, or start building your rack skills on more forgiving grades.
Routes
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Chillum (5.8b, Sport, Ganja Wall)
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Two Minutes For Roughing (5.9+, Trad, Hideout Wall)
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First Degree (V0, Boulder, Mill Creek Falls)
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Cat Powers (V1, Boulder, Dakota Boulders)
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Lil Cerberus (V2.5, Boulder, Dakota Boulders)
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Ollila Slab (V0, Boulder, Pinhook Boulders)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
This is where the La Sals really shine. Quality movement on featured sandstone with enough variety to keep sessions interesting. The bouldering gets technical and powerful, while the sport routes offer everything from endurance pumpers to technical face climbing.
Routes
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Bone Doctor (5.10+, Sport, Good Times Wall)
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Sweet Thing (5.10a, Sport, Upper Dakota Crag)
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Going the Distance (5.11c, Sport, Other Mill Creek Areas)
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Petrified Feline (5.11c+, Trad, Lower Mill Creek)
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Don't Look Back (V3, Boulder, Dakota Boulders)
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Common Burn (V4, Boulder, Dakota Boulders)
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Final Girl (V4, Boulder, Dakota Boulders)
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Hades' Nutz (V5, Boulder, Dakota Boulders)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
The business end of La Sal climbing. These routes demand everything you've got and then some. Wicked Crag serves up some of the area's most demanding sport climbing, while the bouldering pushes into serious power territory.
Routes
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Sexy Beast (5.12, Sport, Lower Mill Creek)
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Scavenger (5.12+, Sport, Wicked Crag)
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Crush the Skull (5.12d, Sport, Wicked Crag)
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The Pastors Daughter (5.12-, Trad, Hideout Wall)
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Burn After Bleeding (V7, Boulder, Dakota Boulders)
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Cross Bones Style (V7, Boulder, Dakota Boulders)
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Epic Routes
When you want something bigger than a single pitch. The La Sals offer legitimate adventure climbing and even winter ice objectives for those willing to venture beyond the standard sport climbing scene.
Routes
- Pleiades (WI3+, Trad, Brumley Canyon)
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