Kolob Canyon Climbing Guide
Kolob Canyon offers some of Utah's most striking red rock climbing, with towering Navajo sandstone walls and classic desert routes. The area features everything from mellow trad lines to steep sport climbs, making it a solid destination for climbers looking to experience Zion's geology without the crowds. Access requires a permit for overnight camping, and some approaches can be lengthy.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Kolob Canyon climbing. These routes have earned their reputation through exceptional movement, position, and overall experience.
Routes
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Namaste (5.11d, Sport, Namaste Wall)
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Hall of Smears (5.11d, Sport, South Fork)
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Fred Beckey (5.6, Trad, South Fork of Taylor)
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Altered States (5.7, Trad, South Fork)
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Last Rites (5.10d, Trad, South Fork of Taylor)
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High Noon (5.11a, Sport, South Fork)
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Huecos Rancheros (5.12b, Sport, Namaste Wall)
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Pulp Friction (5.10c, Sport, South Fork)
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Sand Surfin' (5.10b, Sport, South Fork)
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The Futura (5.10+, Trad, Paria Point)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on desert sandstone, these routes offer classic Zion climbing without the intimidation factor. Great for warming up or introducing someone to the area's unique rock quality.
Routes
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Shotgun (5.8+, Trad, South Fork)
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Pins and Needles (5.9, Sport, South Fork)
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Self Abuse (5.9, Sport, South Fork)
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Hueco Direct Start (5.9, Trad, South Fork)
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Solstice of Change (5.9, Trad, North Fork Temp)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.11a)
The sweet spot for most visiting parties. These routes showcase what Kolob does best – sustained movement on featured sandstone with enough variety to keep things interesting all day.
Routes
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Special Sauce (5.10a, Trad, South Fork of Taylor)
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Tail Of The Cock (5.10a/b, Trad, South Fork)
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Center Route (5.10b/c, Trad, South Fork)
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Hueco Traverse (5.10d, Sport, South Fork)
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1/2 Route (5.10+, Sport, Namaste Wall)
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Tucupit Occidentalis (5.10+, Trad, North Fork of Taylor)
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Hueco 2nd Pitch (5.10+, Sport, South Fork)
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Hard Routes (5.11a/b–5.13a)
For climbers looking to push their limits on desert stone. These routes demand technical precision and endurance, representing some of the area's most challenging offerings.
Routes
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Dost Mitra (5.11a/b, Sport, Namaste Wall)
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12 Route Extension (5.11, Sport, Namaste Wall)
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Sunlight Buttress (5.11c, Trad, Paria Point)
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The Skeleton Key (5.12a, Trad, South Fork of Taylor)
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Wind Sand & Stars (5.12b, Trad, Paria Point)
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Morphology (5.12b, Trad, South Fork of Taylor)
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Twins Paradox (5.12c, Sport, Namaste Wall)
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Pain Chamber (5.12c, Trad, South Fork of Taylor)
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Twin Paradox Direct (5.13a, Sport, Namaste Wall)
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Bouldering
Limited but quality bouldering options for rest days or quick sessions. The Taylor Creek area offers some decent problems when you need a break from the big walls.
Routes
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Lizard Cove (V2, Boulder, Taylor Creek Boulders)
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Victory Pinch (V8, Boulder, Taylor Creek Boulders)
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