Kane Creek Canyon Climbing Guide
Kane Creek Canyon offers some of Utah's most varied traditional climbing, from mellow multi-pitch adventures to burly single-pitch testpieces. The area draws climbers for its quality Wingate and Navajo sandstone, diverse route selection, and relatively easy access from Moab. Check current access conditions as some areas may have seasonal restrictions.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Kane Creek's character. These routes have earned their reputation through quality movement, solid rock, and that indefinable something that makes them memorable.
Routes
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Bakery Route (5.11a, Trad, Bakery)
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The Edibles (5.11b, Trad, Bakery)
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Deep Voodoo (5.8, Trad, The Cirque of the Climbables)
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Corner Route (5.12-, Trad, The Cirque of the Climbables)
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Abraxas Left (5.10b, Trad, Abraxas Wall)
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Abraxas Right (5.10+, Trad, Abraxas Wall)
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Cherry On Top (5.10b, Trad, Bakery)
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Flour Power (5.10c/d, Trad, Bakery)
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Krack Kokane (5.11a, Trad, Abraxas Wall)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building your trad skills or getting warmed up before tackling the harder stuff. These routes offer solid protection and manageable grades while still delivering that classic Utah desert experience.
Routes
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I Dream of Jeannie (5.6, Trad, The Cirque of the Climbables)
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Fickle Finger of Fate (Rumbling Bald) (5.7, Trad, Fickle Finger of Fate (Rumbling Bald))
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Moonwalker (5.9, Trad, Fickle Finger of Fate)
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Eagles Nest Direct (Fickle Finger of Fate) (5.9, Trad, Fickle Finger of Fate)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
This is where Kane Creek really shines. Expect technical face climbing, sustained crack systems, and routes that'll push your gear placement skills. Come prepared with a solid rack and your head screwed on straight.
Routes
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Abraxas Tower (5.10-, Trad, Abraxas Wall)
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Krack Pipe (5.10+, Trad, Abraxas Wall)
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Itchy and Scratchy (5.10b, Trad, Crusty the Clown)
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For Desert Rats Only (5.11c+, Trad, The Cirque of the Climbables)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
The business end of Kane Creek. These routes demand solid 5.11+ trad skills, mental fortitude, and the ability to place gear while pumped. Not for the faint of heart.
Routes
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Epitaph (5.13, Trad, The Cirque of the Climbables)
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Grave (5.12-, Trad, Grave Wall)
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Unleashed (5.11+, Trad, Grave Wall)
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Bouldering
When you need a break from the gear game or want to warm up those fingers, Kane Creek has some quality boulder problems scattered throughout the area.
Routes
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Fickle Finger of Fate (NorthWest) (V1, Boulder, Fickle Finger of Fate)
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Fickle Finger of Fate (South Island) (V1, Boulder, Fickle Finger of Fate)
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