Joe's Valley Climbing Guide
Joe's Valley is Utah's premier sandstone bouldering destination, offering everything from perfect warm-ups to world-class test pieces on some of the most featured rock you'll find anywhere. The area spans multiple zones from the accessible Warm-Up Area and The Closet to more remote gems like the Left Fork and Right Fork areas. Access is straightforward via Straight Canyon Road, but respect private property and pack out your trash—this place is too good to lose.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Joe's Valley. These problems showcase the area's best movement and rock quality across all grades. If you're only here for a day or two, start with this list.
Routes
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Better Than Coffee (V2, Boulder, Warm-Up Area)
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Dem' Bones (V2, Boulder, Warm-Up Area)
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Bonzi Lightning (V2, Boulder, The Closet)
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Bad Genes (V2, Boulder, The Closet)
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Reading Rainbow (V2, Boulder, The Closet)
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Snake Eyes (V2, Boulder, The Closet)
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The Angler (V2-5+, Boulder, Left Fork > Riverside Boulders)
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Pimpn' Jeans (V3-4/6A+, Boulder, The Closet)
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Dark Hole (V4-6, Boulder, Road Boulder)
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Stink Eye (V4/6B, Boulder, 88+)
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Contact (V5/6C, Boulder, 88+)
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Crack Attack (V15, Boulder, Road Boulder)
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Beginner Routes (V0–V2)
Perfect for getting your feet under you on Joe's Valley sandstone or warming up before harder sends. The Warm-Up Area and The Closet offer the most concentrated beginner-friendly climbing with short approaches and plenty of options.
Routes
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Scoopable (V0+, Boulder, Warm-Up Area)
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Sphere (V0, Boulder, The Closet)
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Sphere Slab (V0, Boulder, The Closet)
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Womb Tomb (V1, Boulder, Warm-Up Area)
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Happy (V1, Boulder, The Closet)
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Lamar (V1, Boulder, The Closet)
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Tweakers (V2, Boulder, Warm-Up Area)
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Todd's Arete (V2, Boulder, Warm-Up Area)
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The Plank (V2, Boulder, Warm-Up Area)
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Intermediate Routes (V3–V5)
This is where Joe's Valley really starts to show its teeth. Expect technical movement, committing sequences, and the kind of sandstone features that make this place legendary. These routes span the entire valley and reward exploration.
Routes
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Don't Leave Too Soon (V3/6A, Boulder, Left Fork > Riverside Boulders)
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Super Sloper (V3/6A, Boulder, Area 51 (New Joe's))
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Scary Spice (V3/6A, Boulder, Area 51 (New Joe's))
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Michelangelo (V3/6A, Boulder, Man Size)
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Bowling Ball (V4/6B, Boulder, Right Fork > Buoux Area)
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Kobra Khan (V4/6B, Boulder, Left Fork > Halloween Town)
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Perfect Jeans (V4/6B, Boulder, The Closet)
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Rug Rat (V5/6C, Boulder, Right Fork > UMWA Boulder)
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Kill by Numbers (V5/6C, Boulder, Left Fork > Mine Cart Area)
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Turd Crimper (V5/6C, Boulder, Chip and Dale)
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Iron Butterfly (V5/6C, Boulder, 7 Mile Marker)
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Hard Routes (V6+)
The business end of Joe's Valley. These routes demand everything you've got and showcase why this area has produced so many strong climbers. The Chip and Dale area is particularly stacked with hard classics.
Routes
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Planet of the Apes (V7/7A+, Boulder, Chip and Dale)
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Chips (V7/7A+, Boulder, Chip and Dale)
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American Gigolo (V7/7A+, Boulder, Chip and Dale)
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Planet of the Grapes (V7+/7A+, Boulder, Chip and Dale)
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Fish n' Chips (V7-8/7B, Boulder, Chip and Dale)
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Innagada Davita (V7/7A+, Boulder, 7 Mile Marker)
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Bubbatronic (V9/7C, Boulder, Chip and Dale)
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Brush Off (V15, Boulder, Road Boulder)
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