Indian Creek Climbing Guide
Indian Creek is the world's premier splitter crack destination, where perfect parallel-sided cracks split through Wingate sandstone for hundreds of feet. This is where you come to dial in your crack technique and test your jamming endurance on some of the most classic traditional routes in North America. Access is straightforward via Highway 211, but respect the desert environment and pack out everything you bring in.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Indian Creek climbing. These are the lines that have been testing climbers for decades and represent the best of what the Creek has to offer. If you're making the pilgrimage, these should be on your list.
Routes
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Cube Steaks (5.10b, Trad, 2nd Meat Wall)
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Generic Crack (5.10-, Trad, Donnelly Canyon)
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Blue Sun (5.10, Trad, Way Rambo)
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Supercrack of the Desert (aka Luxury Liner) (5.10, Trad, Supercrack Buttress)
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Incredible Hand Crack (5.10, Trad, Supercrack Buttress)
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Jolly Rancher (5.10, Trad, Pistol Whipped)
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The Sickle (5.10, Trad, Original Meat Wall)
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3AM Crack (5.10, Trad, Supercrack Buttress)
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Tom Cat (5.10, Trad, Cat Wall)
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Neat (5.10, Trad, The Optimator)
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The Schoolmaster (5.10, Trad, The Wall)
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Bad Rad Duality (5.10d, Trad, Supercrack Buttress)
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Vulcan Neck Pinch (5.10, Trad, Trick or Treat Wall)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
The bread and butter of Indian Creek climbing. These routes will push your jamming technique and endurance while introducing you to the sustained nature that makes the Creek legendary. Expect full-value pitches that demand solid crack skills.
Routes
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Short Loin (5.10-, Trad, 1st Meat Wall)
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Menudo (5.10-, Trad, 1st Meat Wall)
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McRib (5.10b, Trad, 1st Meat Wall)
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Milt's Burger (5.10b, Trad, 1st Meat Wall)
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Chicken Nugget (5.10+, Trad, 1st Meat Wall)
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Chicken Wings (5.10+, Trad, 1st Meat Wall)
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Taco Flavored Kisses (5.10+, Trad, 1st Meat Wall)
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Colossal Chicken (5.10+, Trad, 1st Meat Wall)
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Beef Soda (5.10+, Trad, 1st Meat Wall)
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At Your Cervix (5.11-, Trad, 2nd Meat Wall)
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Cricket Roof (5.11a, Trad, Blue Grama Cliff)
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Learning to Crawl (5.11, Trad, Thumbelina (Bridger Jacks))
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
These are the routes that separate the Creek crushers from the weekend warriors. Expect technical jamming sequences, sustained difficulty, and the kind of pump that makes you question your life choices. Come prepared with dialed technique and serious endurance.
Routes
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Kebab (5.11c, Trad, 1st Meat Wall)
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Bro Shoe Dough (5.11+, Trad, 2nd Meat Wall)
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Blue Grama (5.11c, Trad, Blue Grama Cliff)
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The Judge (5.12-, Trad, The Wall)
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Learning to Fly (5.13a, Trad, The Wall)
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Hydraulic Pump (5.12+, Trad, 4X4)
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Carbondale Short Bus (5.13+, Trad, 4X4)
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Battle of the Bulge (5.12+, Trad, Battle of the Bulge Buttress)
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Down in Albion (5.13d, Trad, Battle of the Bulge Buttress)
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3 Strikes You're Out (5.12+, Trad, Battle of the Bulge Buttress)
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Catastrophe (5.13-, Sport, Cat Wall)
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Bacon in the Sun (5.13b, Trad, 2nd Meat Wall)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your first taste of Creek technique without the full commitment. These routes let you work on basic jamming and crack reading skills while building confidence on the unique Wingate sandstone.
Routes
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Big Papa Bear (5.8b, Trad, The Wall)
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Dirty Girl (5.9c, Trad, The Wall)
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Falcon (5.9c, Trad, The Wall)
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Bunny Slope (5.9, Trad, Critic's Choice)
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