Ibex Climbing Guide
Ibex delivers solid desert climbing with a mix of sport routes, trad lines, and world-class bouldering on quality sandstone. The area offers everything from mellow beginner routes to desperate hard sport climbs, plus some of Utah's best boulder problems. Access is straightforward, but respect private property and seasonal wildlife closures.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Ibex. Mix of iconic trad routes and world-class boulder problems that put this area on the map.
Routes
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Quartermoon (5.9+, Trad, North Face (Quartermoon Tower))
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Bruce Lee (V10+, Boulder, Red Monster)
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Ju (V7+, Boulder, Red Monster)
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Blue Flowers (V7+, Boulder, Red Monster)
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White Arete (V7+, Boulder, Thing 1)
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White Arete Sit (V9+, Boulder, Thing 1)
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Bone Collector (V11+, Boulder, Thing II)
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Meat and Potatoes (V8+, Boulder, Thing II)
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Topus Arete (V5-6C, Boulder, Topus Boulder)
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Way Cows (V2-5+, Boulder, Red Monster Area)
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Bulbous (V2-5+, Boulder, Red Monster Area)
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Knight (V7, Boulder, Warm Point)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on desert rock or getting warmed up before harder sends. These routes offer good movement on quality stone without being too pumpy.
Routes
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Unknown (5.6, Sport, Central Corral Crag)
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Unknown (5.7, Sport, Ewe For Real Wall)
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Old and In The Weigh (5.7+, Sport, Southern Corral Crag)
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Tower East (5.7+, Sport, Ewe For Real Wall)
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Brown Nosed Sheep (5.8, Trad, Ewe For Real Wall)
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Makin' Babies (5.8+, Sport, Newlywed Area)
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Eye Dew (5.8, Sport, Newlywed Area)
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Bodaggette (5.9, Sport, Central Corral Crag)
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San Francisco Peeks (5.9, Sport, Left Formation)
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Rolling Thunder (5.9, Sport, Left Formation)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.11b)
Solid moderate climbing that'll test your technique and endurance. Mix of sport and trad options across different walls, including some quality multi-pitch on Quartermoon Tower.
Routes
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Donald Pump (5.10a, Sport, Southern Corral Crag)
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Ewe For Real (5.10b, Sport, Ewe For Real Wall)
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Ewe Got It (5.10c, Trad, Ewe For Real Wall)
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Shark Attack (5.10b, Sport, Left Formation)
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Cape Fear (5.10b, Sport, Left Formation)
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Gary Wade Brown (5.11a, Sport, Boyscout Bluff)
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Devirginized (5.10b, Trad, Newlywed Area)
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Moonshine (5.10a, Sport, North Face (Quartermoon Tower))
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Aurora Borealis/Lunar Power (5.10b, Trad, East Face (Quartermoon Tower))
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Eagle Terrace (5.10b, Trad, East Face (Quartermoon Tower))
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Quarter Inch from Falling (5.11b, Trad, North Face (Quartermoon Tower))
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Hard Routes (5.11c–5.13a)
Serious business for strong climbers. These routes demand solid technique, power, and commitment. The Holey Moley Wall hosts some particularly burly lines.
Routes
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Boy Scout and the Brownie (5.11c, Sport, Boyscout Bluff)
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Everybody Bleeds (5.13a, Sport, Holey Moley Wall)
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Old School Hardman (5.12d, Sport, Holey Moley Wall)
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Rollercoaster (5.12d, Sport, Holey Moley Wall)
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Ewe Betch Ewe (5.12a, Sport, Ewe For Real Wall)
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Shotgun Wedding (5.12b, Sport, Newlywed Area)
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Hardpan Heroics (5.12b, Trad, East Face (Quartermoon Tower))
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