House Range Climbing Guide
The House Range offers some of Utah's most diverse limestone climbing, from beginner-friendly sport routes to serious multi-pitch trad lines. Scattered across multiple canyons and formations, this area rewards exploration with quality stone and relatively uncrowded walls. Access varies by location, so check current conditions and respect private land boundaries.
Classic Routes (5.9–5.11+)
The must-do lines that define the House Range experience. These routes combine quality movement, solid rock, and the area's signature limestone character.
Routes
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Pistol Pete (5.9, Sport, West Sawtooth Canyon)
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Bono (5.9, Sport, Roadside Rock)
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Aqualine (5.9, Sport, Roadside Rock)
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La Fin du Monde (5.10, Trad, Notch Peak)
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Dogleg Dihedral (5.10+, Trad, West Sawtooth Canyon)
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Redtail (5.11a, Trad, West Sawtooth Canyon)
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Book of Saturday (5.11a, Trad, Notch Peak)
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Miller's Thriller (5.11a, Trad, Miller Canyon)
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Bad Bolt (5.11-, Sport, Marjum Canyon)
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Brown Out (5.11c, Sport, Roadside Rock)
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Thorn In The Side (5.11c, Sport, Melting Yorkshireman Mesa)
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Anti-Crack (5.11c+, Sport, West Sawtooth Canyon)
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Line Pirate (5.11d, Sport, Melting Yorkshireman Mesa)
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Your Next Poor Decision (5.11+, Trad, Apes of the State Wall)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on limestone or getting your legs under you after a long drive. These routes offer solid movement without the commitment of the area's harder lines.
Routes
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Candyland (5.6, Trad, West Sawtooth Canyon)
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Fun House (5.6, Trad, West Sawtooth Canyon)
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Downtown (5.6, Sport, Roadside Rock)
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Hermit Fire (5.7, Sport, Marjum Canyon)
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Airy Butt Easy (5.7, Sport, Roadside Rock)
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The Boys from Provo (5.8, Sport, Marjum Canyon)
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Crack House (5.8, Trad, West Sawtooth Canyon)
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Washington Pass (5.8, Sport, Roadside Rock)
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Creamsicle Buttress (5.8, Sport, Roadside Rock)
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Good Husband Sticker (5.9, Sport, Marjum Canyon)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.10d)
The sweet spot for most visiting parties. These routes showcase the House Range's technical limestone climbing with good protection and engaging movement.
Routes
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Nobody's Darlings (5.10a, Sport, Marjum Canyon)
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Adventures of the Two-Day Napkin (5.10a, Sport, Marjum Canyon)
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Science Friction (5.10a, Trad, West Sawtooth Canyon)
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Fat Matt's Rib Shack (5.10a, Sport, Miller Canyon)
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Calanques (5.10a, Sport, Roadside Rock)
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Edglings and Etchings (5.10b, Sport, Marjum Canyon)
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Western Hardman (5.10c, Trad, Notch Peak)
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Banks Marathon (5.10c, Sport, Roadside Rock)
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Strahler (5.10d, Sport, Marjum Canyon)
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Hard Routes (5.12–5.12c)
Serious business for strong climbers. These routes demand technical precision and power on the House Range's steepest terrain.
Routes
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Don't Step on the Napkin (5.12-, Sport, Marjum Canyon)
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Appetite for Destruction (5.12a/b, Trad, Notch Peak)
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The Eighth Deadly Sin (5.12a/b, Sport, Melting Yorkshireman Mesa)
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Allergic Reaction (5.12a, Sport, Roadside Rock)
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Miller Time (5.12a, Sport, Miller Canyon)
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The Unforgiven (5.12c, Sport, Melting Yorkshireman Mesa)
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Boulders (V5)
Limited but quality bouldering for when you need a break from the ropes or want to warm up those fingers.
Routes
- Through Painted Deserts (V5, Boulder, Miller Canyon)
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