Hobble Creek Canyon Climbing Guide
Hobble Creek Canyon offers some of Utah's most diverse climbing, from beginner-friendly sport routes to world-class bouldering that'll humble even the strongest crushers. The canyon is famous for its quality limestone sport climbing on the Drone Wall and Mars Bars, plus the legendary Seclusion bouldering area that hosts some of the hardest problems on the planet. Access is straightforward year-round, though winter conditions can make the approach sketchy.
Beginner Routes (5.6–5.8)
Perfect for building confidence on real rock or getting your sport climbing legs under you. The Drone Wall and Mars Bars offer quality limestone with good protection and moderate grades that won't spit you off immediately.
Routes
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The Rubber Boa (5.6, Sport, Drone Wall)
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The Pickle Jar (5.7, Sport, Mars Bars)
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Tres Hermanos (5.7+, Sport, Drone Wall)
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7 Layer Bean Dip (5.7+, Sport, Mars Bars)
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The Drone (5.8, Sport, Drone Wall)
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Bushy Tailed Wood Rat (5.8, Sport, Drone Wall)
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Queen Bee (5.8, Sport, Drone Wall)
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Short, Shitty and Sharp (5.8, Sport, Drone Wall)
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Intermediate Routes (5.8+–5.11a)
This is where Hobble Creek starts showing its teeth. Mix of sport and trad that'll push your technical skills and introduce you to the canyon's more demanding limestone. Good warm-up zone before jumping on the harder stuff.
Routes
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One Foot Bare Foot (5.8+, Sport, Mars Bars)
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Get You Some (5.8+, Sport, Jenga Wall)
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Stinger (5.9, Sport, Drone Wall)
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Unknown 5.10 (5.10, Sport, Red Narrows)
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Old School 1 (5.10a/b, Trad, The Original Wall)
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The Rattler (5.10b, Sport, Drone Wall)
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Stay Dry (5.10b/c, Trad, Red Narrows)
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Rain Delay (5.10d, Sport, Drone Wall)
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Un Earthly (5.10+, Sport, Mars Bars)
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Dead Finger (5.11a, Sport, Drone Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.11b–5.14a)
The business end of Hobble Creek's sport climbing. These routes demand serious fitness and technical precision, with the Drone Wall serving up some of the canyon's most challenging limestone climbing. Come prepared to work.
Routes
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Snaked (5.11b, Sport, Drone Wall)
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Flight of the Bumblie (5.11c, Sport, Drone Wall)
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The Buzzkill (5.11c, Sport, Drone Wall)
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The Hive (5.11d, Sport, Drone Wall)
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Beeleave (5.12a/b, Sport, Drone Wall)
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Prestidigitator (5.14a, Sport, Drone Wall)
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Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Hobble Creek's reputation. From accessible trad classics to world-famous boulder problems that have shaped modern climbing, these routes represent the canyon's legendary status in the climbing world.
Routes
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Back Of The Wall (5.8, Trad, The Original Wall)
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Concealment (V0, Boulder, Bouldering)
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Eclipse (V2, Boulder, Asteroid (Bouldering))
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Sally Sells Shells (V4, Boulder, Seclusion (Bouldering))
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Big Dipper (V4, Boulder, Asteroid (Bouldering))
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Stellar (V5, Boulder, Bouldering)
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Delusion (V15, Boulder, Seclusion (Bouldering))
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Exposure (V15, Boulder, Seclusion (Bouldering))
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Pale Shelter (V15, Boulder, Seclusion (Bouldering))
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Fatty McButterpants (V25+, Boulder, Seclusion (Bouldering))
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Lair o' the Bear (V36, Boulder, Seclusion (Bouldering))
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Shadow (V36, Boulder, Seclusion (Bouldering))
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Schnoz (V46, Boulder, Seclusion (Bouldering))
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