Grand Staircase Escalante Climbing Guide
Grand Staircase Escalante offers some of Utah's most remote and pristine sandstone climbing, with everything from beginner-friendly sport routes to classic desert towers. The area features quality Navajo sandstone with good protection and stunning desert scenery, though approach times can be significant. Check current access restrictions as some areas may have seasonal closures or require permits.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define climbing in Grand Staircase Escalante. These routes offer the best combination of movement, position, and rock quality the area has to offer.
Routes
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Beam Bump (5.6, Sport, Long Canyon)
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The Off-Width of Convenience (5.8, Trad, The Bride's Tower)
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Easy Peasy (Lemon Squeezy) (5.8, Trad, Long Canyon)
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Flipper Babies (5.8, Trad, Long Canyon)
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A Gentleman's Line (5.8-, Trad, Southern Groomsman)
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Sponge Pants (5.9+, Trad, Rocky Shores)
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Sirens (5.9+, Sport, Swoop Wall)
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Barrel O' Fun (5.9+, Sport, Carrot Buttress)
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Enewman (5.9+, Sport, Carrot Buttress)
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Debriding Agent (5.9+, Trad, The Bridesmaid)
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Cactus Fall (5.9+, Trad, Long Canyon)
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Longs Lies (5.9+, Trad, Long Canyon)
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Swoop Crack (5.10a, Trad, Swoop Wall)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting comfortable on desert sandstone or introducing new climbers to the area. These routes offer good movement and manageable grades without the commitment of the harder lines.
Routes
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Air Affair (5.7, Sport, Carrot Buttress)
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The Northern Groomsman (5.7, Trad, The Northern Groomsman)
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Trickster (5.8, Trad, Roadrunner Tower)
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Spare the Rod... (5.8, Trad, Altar Boy Tower)
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Bivalve Bivi (5.8, Sport, Rocky Shores)
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Little Urchin (5.8, Sport, Rocky Shores)
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5.8 Corner (5.8, Trad, Long Canyon)
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How 'Bout a FRESCA...hmm? (5.8, Sport, Carrot Buttress)
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The Brain of K (5.8+, Sport, Carrot Buttress)
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I Buck One (5.9-, Sport, Carrot Buttress)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.11)
Step up your game with these moderate challenges. Good for pushing grades or getting solid mileage on quality stone when you want something with a bit more bite.
Routes
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OW Corner (5.10-, Sport, Rocky Shores)
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Grizzly Chizzly (5.10a, Sport, Swoop Wall)
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Vicious Dog Attack (5.10a, Sport, Swoop Wall)
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Cat 'll Own Ya (5.10b, Sport, Swoop Wall)
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Given to Fly (5.10b, Sport, Swoop Wall)
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Bacon Strip (5.10b, Sport, Carrot Buttress)
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Big Johnston's Arete' (5.10b, Trad, Carrot Buttress)
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One Slung Shrub (5.10c, Sport, Swoop Wall)
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Second Thoughts (5.10c/d, Trad, Round Valley Draw)
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Make A Da Sauce (5.11-, Sport, Swoop Wall)
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Lucky (5.11a, Sport, Swoop Wall)
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Like Buttah (5.11b, Sport, Swoop Wall)
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Hard Routes (5.11+)
For when you're feeling strong and want to test yourself on some of the area's more demanding lines. Bring your A-game and solid technique.
Routes
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Bastard Child (5.10c/d, Trad, Long Canyon)
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Inconceivable (5.11a/b, Trad, Rocky Shores)
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Heart of Sandstone (5.11c/d, Trad, Round Valley Draw)
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Karma (5.11d, Sport, Swoop Wall)
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Bouldering
For rest days or warming up, though the area is primarily known for its route climbing. Limited options but worth checking out if you're in the area.
Routes
- Fossiliferous Face (V0, Boulder, Swoop Wall)
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