Goblin Valley Area Climbing Guide
The Goblin Valley area offers some of Utah's most unique desert tower climbing, with everything from mellow multi-pitch adventures to technical crack systems carved into Entrada sandstone formations. The climbing here spans multiple crags and isolated towers scattered across the San Rafael Swell, making it a perfect destination for climbers looking to explore beyond the typical desert hotspots. Access varies by area, so check current conditions and land management restrictions before heading out.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define the Goblin Valley climbing experience. These routes span all grades and styles, representing the area's best and most iconic climbs.
Routes
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5 o'clock shadow (5.8+, Sport, Winter Wall)
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Cry Wolf (5.8+, Trad, B Crags (Spotted Wolf))
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Arrowhead, The (5.8+, Trad, D Crags)
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Day of Atonement (5.8, Trad, E Crags (DBC Canyon))
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Sara's Spire (5.9, Trad, Routes)
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Sid and Charley (5.10+, Trad, Routes)
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South-Southeast Face (5.4, Trad, Temple Mountain)
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Planet X (Problicom Motion) (5.5, Trad, Viewfinder Towers)
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Unknown (5.6, Trad, Wild Horse Window)
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Angel of Death (A3, Trad, Long Dong Silver Area)
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Super Crack of the Reef (5.10+, Trad, B Crags (Spotted Wolf))
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West Face of Tiki Tower (5.8, Trad, Tiki Tower)
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Beginner Routes (5.5–5.8)
Perfect for getting comfortable on desert sandstone or warming up before harder objectives. These routes offer solid introductions to the area's unique rock quality and classic Entrada formations.
Routes
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Aiguille du Gieant (5.5, Trad, C Crags)
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The Great North Ridge (5.6, Trad, B Crags (Spotted Wolf))
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Dancin' in the Dark II (5.6, Trad, B Crags (Spotted Wolf))
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Firebird (5.7, Trad, A Crags)
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Mustn't Crumble (5.7, Trad, The Mudstrosity)
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Scenic Highway (5.8, Trad, Scenic Byway Wall)
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Rumble Strips (5.8, Trad, A Crags)
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Dugana (5.8, Trad, C Crags)
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Shade Runner (5.8, Trad, D Crags)
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Intermediate Routes (5.9–5.10+)
Step up your game with these moderate classics that showcase the area's technical variety. Expect sustained climbing on featured faces, splitter cracks, and engaging tower routes.
Routes
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Chopped Sand (5.9, Trad, Outhouse Tower)
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The Dark Side (5.9, Trad, B Crags (Spotted Wolf))
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Velvet America (5.9, Trad, A Crags)
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Original Route (5.9, Trad, Trilobite Tower)
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Private Pizza (5.9, Trad, Private Pizza Wall)
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Naked Truth (5.9+, Trad, B Crags (Spotted Wolf))
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Scenic Byway (5.10a, Trad, Scenic Byway Wall)
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James Tower AKA The Lightbulb (5.10a, Trad, Red Corner)
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Rebus (5.10, Trad, B Crags (Spotted Wolf))
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Hole in One (5.10b, Trad, A Crags)
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Sidewinder (5.10+, Trad, B Crags (Spotted Wolf))
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Hard Routes (5.11+)
Serious business for experienced desert climbers. These routes demand solid technique and mental game on sustained, technical terrain.
Routes
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99 Problems (5.11a, Sport, Camels Head Rincon)
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Fog of Uncertainty (5.11b, Sport, Winter Wall)
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Hot Buttered Popcorn with Salt (5.11+, Trad, B Crags (Spotted Wolf))
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Easy Street (5.12-, Trad, F Crags)
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Innominate (5.12a, Trad, B Crags (Spotted Wolf))
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High Tolerance (5.12, Trad, Good Water Tower)
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Bouldering
Quality problems scattered across multiple areas, from mellow warm-ups to technical projects. The bouldering here complements the area's tower climbing perfectly.
Routes
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Chossy Boogers Boulder (V3, Boulder, Short Canyon Reservoir Boulders)
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Slabtastic Topout Boulder (V3, Boulder, Short Canyon Reservoir Boulders)
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My Girl (V3, Boulder, B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyon))
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Crackers (V0-4, Boulder, Shooting Range)
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Crackers Time! (V3+, Boulder, Shooting Range)
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Dilbert Randall (V2-3, Boulder, Shooting Range)
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Raptor Bite (V5-6, Boulder, Shooting Range)
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Shooters (V3+, Boulder, Shooting Range)
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