Glen Canyon Climbing
Glen Canyon offers some of Utah's most unique climbing experiences, with towering sandstone formations and quality bouldering scattered throughout this massive recreation area. The climbing here ranges from mellow traditional routes on iconic towers to world-class boulder problems that draw strong climbers from around the globe. Access can involve significant approaches and navigation, so come prepared with good maps and plenty of water.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define Glen Canyon climbing. These are the lines everyone talks about and the ones you'll regret missing.
Routes
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Fart'n Martin (5.8, Trad, Martin's Tower)
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Hueco Wall (5.8, Trad, Main Escalante Channel)
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Chevy's Chimney (5.9, Trad, Chevy's Tower)
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The Ring Breaker (5.9, Trad, Bowns & Long Canyon)
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Old Timer's Route (5.10b, Trad, Steve's Tower)
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Jump for Jesus (V4, Boulder, Jump for Jesus Boulder)
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Sea of Tranquility (V7, Boulder, Tranquility Area)
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Ebony (V25+, Boulder, Big Water Boulders)
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Flight (V25+, Boulder, Big Water Boulders)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for getting your feet wet on Glen Canyon sandstone or enjoying a more relaxed day out. These routes offer classic desert tower climbing and approachable boulder problems that won't leave you completely worked.
Routes
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Tranquility Lunge (V1, Boulder, Tranquility Base Boulder)
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Fat Dad's Day Off - Fat Dad Boulder (V1, Boulder, One Small Step Area)
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Ojo del Tigre (V1, Boulder, Jump for Jesus Boulder)
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Gut Shot (V1, Boulder, Power of Copenhagen)
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One Small Step (V2, Boulder, One Small Step Area)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10–5.12)
Step up your game with these moderate challenges that'll test your technique without completely destroying you. Good warm-up territory for strong climbers or solid projects for those pushing into harder grades.
Routes
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Gus Grissom (V4, Boulder, Buzz Neilstrong Boulder)
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Spina Bifida (V5, Boulder, Spina Bifida Boulder)
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Kopavi Mantle (V6, Boulder, Roof Boulder)
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