Ferguson Canyon Climbing Guide
Ferguson Canyon delivers some of Utah's most accessible traditional climbing, with solid quartzite walls that offer everything from mellow multi-pitch adventures to technical single-pitch challenges. The canyon's religious-themed route names reflect the area's spiritual vibe, and the short approach makes it perfect for after-work sessions or full-day cragging. Respect private property on the approach and stick to established trails.
Classic Routes
The must-do lines that define Ferguson Canyon. These routes represent the best climbing the area has to offer across all grades.
Routes
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Holy Grail (5.6, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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Golden Crack (5.9+, Trad, Goldenfingers Wall)
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Fools Gold (5.9+, Trad, Goldenfingers Wall)
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Stone They Rejected (5.10+, Sport, Goldenfingers Wall)
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Benediction (5.10b/c, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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Good June (5.10b/c, Trad, The Cathedral)
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Final Prayer Variation (5.10b/c, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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Invocation (5.10d, Sport, Watchtower Main)
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St. Theresa (5.10d, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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Aftershock (5.10c, Trad, The Cathedral)
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Reach the Beach (5.11b, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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The Revelation (5.11b/c, Sport, Watchtower Main)
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Fortress (5.11a, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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Oracle (5.11c, Trad, The Cathedral)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building your trad skills or getting comfortable with the quartzite. These routes offer solid gear placements and manageable grades that won't leave you pumped and scared.
Routes
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The Confessional (5.6, Trad, The Watchtower)
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Inner Light (5.7a, Trad, The Watchtower)
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Double Cross (5.8, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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Nuptial Vow (5.8, Sport, The Cathedral)
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Mission Impossible (5.9, Trad, The Cathedral)
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Imperial (5.9+, Sport, The Watchtower)
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Hellfire Variation (5.9+, Trad, The Watchtower)
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Feels like Nadine (5.9+, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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Garden of Eden (5.9+, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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Broken Serenity (5.9+, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.10c)
Step up your game with these solid 5.10 offerings. Great for pushing your trad leading or working on technique without getting completely shut down.
Routes
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Extreme Unction (5.10a, Trad, The Watchtower)
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Fire and Brimstone (5.10a, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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Anastasia (5.10a, Trad, The Cathedral)
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Arete Bernadette (5.10a, Trad, Goldenfingers Wall)
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Arete Juliete (5.10a, Trad, Goldenfingers Wall)
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Goldbagger (5.10a, Trad, Goldenfingers Wall)
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Total X (5.10b, Trad, The Watchtower)
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Go For The Roses (5.10b, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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Devil Tree (5.10b, Trad, The Cathedral)
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Goldenfingers (5.10b, Trad, Goldenfingers Wall)
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Beef Jerky (5.10c, Trad, Watchtower Main)
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Hungry for Heaven (5.10c, Sport, Watchtower Main)
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Hard Routes (5.12+)
The business end of Ferguson Canyon. These routes demand solid technique, strong fingers, and the mental game to match.
Routes
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Karmic Trace (5.12, Trad, The Cathedral)
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Swamp Cooler (5.12a, Trad, The Cathedral)
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Goldricke (5.12a, Trad, Goldenfingers Wall)
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Son of Slab (5.12b/c, Sport, The Cathedral)
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PVUSS (5.12c, Trad, Animation Wall)
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Crown of Thorns (5.12c, Sport, Watchtower Main)
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