Farmington Canyon Climbing Guide

A curated route guide to Farmington Canyon.

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Farmington Canyon Climbing Guide

Farmington Canyon offers solid limestone climbing just minutes from Salt Lake City, with everything from mellow trad lines to pumpy sport routes. The canyon features several distinct crags including Farmington Crag, Cougar Crag, and Butt Crack Buttress, plus some quality bouldering at the Playground area. Access is straightforward, but respect private property and seasonal closures.

Classic Routes

The must-do lines that define Farmington Canyon. These routes have earned their reputation through quality movement, good rock, and that special something that keeps you coming back.

Routes

Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)

Perfect for building your trad skills or getting comfortable on limestone. These routes offer good learning opportunities without being too intimidating, plus a few sport options to round out your session.

Routes

Intermediate Routes (5.8–5.11)

Step up your game with these solid mid-grade options. Mix of technical trad climbing and some sport routes that'll test your endurance and movement skills.

Routes

Hard Routes (5.11c+–5.12+)

For when you're ready to push your limits. These routes demand solid technique and mental game, with some mixed climbing and bouldering thrown in for variety.

Routes