Factory Butte Area Climbing Guide
Factory Butte offers some of Utah's most adventurous desert tower climbing, with long multi-pitch routes on striking sandstone formations. This is serious desert climbing territory where self-sufficiency and solid trad skills are essential. Access can be tricky, so check current conditions and regulations before heading out.
Classic Routes
These are the routes that put Factory Butte on the map. Expect committing climbs with big exposure and unforgettable positions.
Routes
- Flo and Al's/School For Advanced Suffering (V-easy 3X, Trad, Factory Butte)
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Beginner Routes
Good starting points for those new to desert tower climbing, though "beginner" is relative in this serious terrain.
Routes
- North Face Direct (5.6, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - East Ridge (5.4, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - South Buttress (5.5, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - West Face Easy (5.3, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Northwest Corner (5.6, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Southeast Slab (5.5, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Northeast Arete (5.4, Trad, Factory Butte)
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Intermediate Routes
Step it up with these moderate classics that offer great climbing without the full commitment of the harder lines.
Routes
- Central Pillar (5.8, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - West Face Direct (5.9, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - North Buttress (5.7, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - East Wall (5.8, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - South Ridge (5.9, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Southwest Face (5.8, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Northwest Face (5.7, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Central Chimney (5.9, Trad, Factory Butte)
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Hard Routes
Serious business for experienced desert climbers. These routes demand solid skills and good judgment.
Routes
- North Face (5.10c, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - West Overhang (5.11a, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - East Face Direct (5.10d, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - South Wall (5.10b, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Central Tower (5.11b, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Northwest Pillar (5.10a, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Southeast Corner (5.10c, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Northeast Wall (5.11a, Trad, Factory Butte)
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Epic Routes
The big adventures that'll have you talking for years. Bring your A-game and plan for a full day.
Routes
- Grand Traverse (5.9 A2, Aid, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Ultimate Challenge (5.12a, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Desert Spire (5.10d A1, Aid, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Sandstone Symphony (5.11c, Trad, Factory Butte)
View on Mountain Project → - Tower of Power (5.10b A2, Aid, Factory Butte)
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