Escalante Petrified Forest Climbing Guide
The Escalante Petrified Forest area offers diverse climbing across multiple walls and formations, from mellow trad lines to steep sport routes. The area features quality Navajo sandstone with everything from beginner-friendly cracks to challenging overhangs, plus solid bouldering opportunities. Access varies by area, so check current conditions and regulations before heading out.
Classic Routes
The must-do routes that define the area. These span all grades and styles, representing the best climbing the Escalante Petrified Forest has to offer.
Routes
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Grand Staircase (3rd Class, Trad, Lily Wall)
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Flipper Babies (5.8, Trad, Long Canyon)
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AKAAKAA - Also Known As a Kick Ass Arete (5.8, Sport, Hammer Wall)
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Code Walker (5.9+, Trad, Lower Hackberry)
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Ignorance is Bliss (5.9+, Trad, Lower Calf Creek Falls)
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Longs Lies (5.9+, Trad, Long Canyon)
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B Garden (5.9+, Sport, Lily Wall)
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Party Boat (5.9+, Sport, Legacy Wall)
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Second Thoughts (5.10c/d, Trad, Round Valley Draw)
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Bastard Child (5.10c/d, Sport, Long Canyon)
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The Montreal Screwjob (V6-7, Boulder, North CRC)
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Cow Pies Direct (V5-6C, Boulder, North CRC)
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Beginner Routes (5.6–5.9)
Perfect for building confidence on desert sandstone. These routes offer a good mix of sport and trad climbing across various walls, giving you a solid taste of what the area has to offer.
Routes
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Beam Bump (5.6, Sport, Long Canyon)
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Nonplussed on Dust on Crust (5.7, Trad, The Colossus of Cannonville)
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Trickster (5.8, Trad, Roadrunner Tower (Cannonville Area))
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Spare the Rod... (5.8, Trad, Altar Boy Tower (Church))
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5.8 Corner (5.8, Trad, Long Canyon)
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Wolf-Dog (5.8+, Trad, Dog Gone Tower)
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Cactus Fall (5.9, Trad, Long Canyon)
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Testing (5.9, Trad, Round Valley Draw)
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Red Alert (5.9, Trad, Upper Hackberry)
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Beehive (5.9, Sport, Lily Wall)
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Intermediate Routes (5.10a–5.11a)
Solid routes for pushing your grade or getting in quality volume. The Legacy Wall and Lily Wall offer excellent sport climbing, while there are still some good trad options mixed in.
Routes
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Mr. Turtle (5.10a, Sport, Legacy Wall)
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Bloody Mary (5.10a, Sport, Legacy Wall)
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Bacon Strip (5.10b, Sport, Carrot Buttress)
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Big Johnston's Arete (5.10b, Trad, Carrot Buttress)
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Exit Stage Left (5.10b, Sport, Legacy Wall)
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3 Years After (5.10b, Sport, Lily Wall)
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Acres of 9 (5.10b, Sport, Lily Wall)
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Beer Ledge (5.10b, Sport, Legacy Wall)
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Breakfast of Mutton (5.11a, Trad, Sheep Creek (Ewe Tower))
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Hard Routes (5.11- and up)
When you're ready to get worked. These routes will test your fitness and technique, with most of the action concentrated on the Legacy Wall and Lily Wall.
Routes
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Contrived (5.11-, Sport, Legacy Wall)
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Hi Holes (5.11c+, Sport, Legacy Wall)
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Stinger (5.11c+, Sport, Lily Wall)
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Heart of Sandstone (5.11c/d, Sport, Round Valley Draw)
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Captain Caveman (5.12a, Sport, Lily Wall)
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Kryptonite (5.12a, Sport, Lily Wall)
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Old Prospector (5.12b, Sport, Lily Wall)
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Grungy Hawaiian Creole (5.12c, Sport, Hammer Wall)
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Bouldering
Good variety of problems concentrated mainly in the North CRC area. Perfect for warming up or when you want a break from the longer routes.
Routes
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Broken Rib (V2+, Boulder, Broken Rib Boulder)
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Campfire Rock (V2-5+, Boulder, North CRC)
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Going, Going, Gone (V3-6A, Boulder, North CRC)
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The Shocker (V3-6A, Boulder, North CRC)
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Welcome to Cap Rock City (V3-6A, Boulder, North CRC)
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Cow Pies Right (V4-6B, Boulder, North CRC)
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